HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Citizen, 2001-05-09, Page 16Fertilize rust trees or high quality yields or lt e
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Bring in your lawn & garden equipment for a
Spring Tune Up Now.
Helpful tips to help you
prevent pests, disease
Nothing is worse than watching your hard work in the garden change from
bright coloured flowers to yellow and brown wilting stems. To help prevent
this from happening to you, here are a few tips to keep your garden healthy
from gardening experts.
• Invest time and material into topnotch soil. Good soil will ensure health-
ier plants that are better able to ward off pests and disease. Work in plenty of
sphagnum peat moss or compost - you'll be glad you did.
• Water your garden in the morning instead of the evening. This allOws the
plants to dry off quickly, preventing many fungal diseases.
• Mulch with grass clippings, wood chips or other mulches as much as pos-
sible. This will reduce the watering and weeding and prevent soil-borne
pathogens from splashing onto plants during watering and rain.
• Whenever possible, seek out disease resistant varieties of your favourite
plants. Many tomatoes, for example, are bred to be resistant to blight and
wilt disease.
• Don't allow your plants to get too dry. This stresses them, and stressed
plants attract pests and disease. ,
• Look at your plants daily. Get in the habit of taking a morning or evening
'stroll around the garden. Most problems can be stopped easily if detected
early.
• Pinch off diseased plant parts. This will often slow or even stop thelproh-
lem.
• Give plants the right light. Too much sun or too much shade stresses
plants, making them more susceptible to problems.
• Choose the right plants.' Pick plants that are well-suited to your region.
Don't try to climatize fussy exotic plants that don't do well without exten-
sive spraying, feeding, watering or other care.
• Keep your garden well weeded. Not only will it look better, but plants
that have to compete for sun, water and nutrients are more likely to get dis-
eases and pests.
Some common pests and diseases include:
Aphids: Tiny green, yellow: or black insects that cluster on a plant's soli
• stems, new leaves or flowers. Symptoms include curled leaves, stunted new
growth and a sticky 'honeydew' on plants. Can often be seen by looking
closely.
Mealybugs: Clusters of these insects form white cotton-like masses on
stems and leaf axils. If the infestation is heavy, growth is slowed and plant
parts die.
Scales: Hard, round or oval shell-like insects that adhere tightly to stems
and leaf undersides. Cause stunted and distorted growth.
Spider Mites: Tiny spiders -that form on leaf undersides and branch tips.
Cause yellow or pale speckled foliage.
Powdery Mildew: Powder-like white or gray areas that appear on tops of
leaves. This fungus can be scraped off with your fingernail.
Fusarium Wilt: Cause stunted, yellowing plants. infected stems, if cut
open, will have black streaks.
Blight: Includes several fungal diseases that include sudden and wide-
spread wilting and browning.
a.
(61* it 04'4- •
• ,
t, , • • - CLASSIFIEDS
PAGE 16. THE CITIZEN, WEDNESDAY, MAY 9. 2001.
When you are planning a fertiliza-
tion program for fruit trees, your goal
should be high yields of high-quality
fruit for the life of your trees. It is
possible to obtain above-normal
yields for one year,. but succeeding
crops could suffer as a result.
While it is very important that
nutrients be present in large enough
quantities for the best tree growth
and fruit production. the ratios of
these nutrients is even more impor-
tant. For example. fruit from trees
with access to too much nitrogen and
too little potash would be poorly
coloured and have poor storage qual-
ities.
There are 13 essential nutrient ele-
ments that come from the soil, and
three elements that come from the air
and water. A deficiency of. one of
those essential nutrients will result in
poor growth and perhaps even pre-
cipitate the death of the tree.
Nitrogen
Most of the tree growth takes place
in a six-to-eight-week period in the
spring and early summer. Fruit buds
for the following year are already
formed before mid-July. For this rea-
son, nitrogen requirements are high
in the early part of the season since
nitrogen stimulates growth and espe-
cially fruit set.
Too much nitrogen late in the sea-
son may result in large poorly-
coloured fruit that does not store
.well. It may also cause increased
winter injury of trees.
Phosphorus
Phosphorus deficiency is rare in
fruit trees. since trees are better able
to utilize soil phosphorus than other
-plants. Phosphorus is. however.
essential' for tree growth and fruit
production.
Potassium
Fruit trees are heavy potassium
feeders, and potassium deficiency is
very common in fruit trees. Signs of
deficiency are small (eaves which
rend to curl. As the deficiency
becomes more extreme, the edges of
the leaves look scorched.
Potassium increases hardiness and.
disease resistance. Because it helps
carry sugars within the tree, adequate
potassium levels mean sweeter fruit.
Calcium
Trees may show calcium deficien-
cy even though the soil in which they
grow is 'high in calcium. Calcium
avail;:ble to the tree through its root
system sometimes moves too slowly
through the tree.
Calcium sprays are often recom-
mended as a corrective measure. A
deficiency of calcium will show up
as bitter pit in apples. They will not
store well.
Magnesium
After nitrogen and potassium,
magnesium is the most common
deficiency found in orchards. Apples
deficient in magnesium will be small
and immature in appearance. On
some varieties, the fruit will drop
prematurely.
Micronutrients
Other essential nutrients. micronu-
trients such as iron. borob, zinc, cop-
per. manganese, molybdenum and
chlorine, are required in very minute
amounts and are usually obtained
from the soil.
Fertilizing
Testing the soil in which your fruit
trees grow is the most reliable way to
understand the nutrients available
and the fertilizer needs. If it is not
possible to do a soil test, use a fertil-
izer-with a 1-1-2 ratio. A common
tomato fertiliZer, such as 7-11-17,
provides a good ratio for fruit trees.
Make the first of two applications
of this fertilizer in April. Punch holes
under the drip line (the line around
the tree where rain would drip from
the branches/foliage) every 12 inch-
es.
The holes should be about nine
inches deep. Pour fertilizer evenly
into each hole according to this rule
of thumb: one pound of fertilizer for
every inch of diameter of trunk.
Thus, a tree with a five-inch diam-
eter trunk would require a total of
five pounds of 7-I 1-17 divided even-
ly among the punched holes.
Top up the holes with sand or com-
post. Repeat again before June I, at
half the rate (i.e. half 4 pound of 7-
11-17 for each inch of diameter in
the trunk.