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The Rural Voice, 1995-09, Page 26In My Keeping X /,I 4)4141 - , r•, 7423 ,45.24 t It was a farmer's tale. First there was the miracle of survival Now was the time of sustenance. By Helena Malton 22 THE RURAL VOICE When my mother makes her annual May escape to the city, she leaves her small herd of Nubian goats in my care. I am always glad to do it. Without the full-time responsibility of milking, pasteurizing, washing buckets, doling out hay and grain, bottle feeding the babies and cleaning the pens, it's easy to slip into a kind of pastoral trance. I get a childish kick out of playing farmer. This time is no different from the others. The milkers put up with me, rolling their eyes heavenwards and flicking their tails. Niobe's teats are enormous water balloons, hard to grasp and strangely elusive, like soap in the bath. (My mother can milk her out in five minutes, but it takes me half an hour.) I sing to her — lullabies and folk songs, my voice shaking slightly as I will her to remain still and not kick over the bucket. Echo's left teat is misshapen; it's like trying to milk a ball point pen. She kicks and I plead, finally bribing her with an extra portion of grain to keep her quiet. It is an old game we play — Echo is a manipulative so-and-so, and she knows I know it. I love the intimacy of the barn, the smell of warm, furry bodies, the bizarre, juicy noise the goats make when chewing dry hay — as if they were munching fresh carrots. When I have finished with the chores, I return to the house, carrying the full milk pail like a trophy, amazed, as always, that milk does indeed come at blood -heat from the glands of mammals and not chilled from a wax cardboard box. I find a note on the fridge — my mother has left a bottle of milk for me, and a soft, cold paper package, labelled "goat chops". I return home and turn on the grill. The chops will be seasoned with a little salt, pepper, and a dash of Worcestershire — delicious. I unwrap the package. The chops are tiny. Chop -shaped, yes, but from a goat - kid — a small one. I flash back to December. It is Christmas night. Niobe is pregnant; due to deliver at any moment, and my mother has turned on the intercom — the audio connection between house and barn.