The Rural Voice, 2004-08, Page 28HURON ,
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24 THE RURAL VOICE
Then there was the battle of the
walls. Officials said the cheese plant
couldn't be attached to the barn so he
asked if it could be built two feet
away from the barn. They grudgingly
agreed. He then asked, what if it was
a foot away. They agreed. Then what
if it was a few inches away. They
agreed. So he said he would build a
separate wall for the cheese plant
that's a few inches from the barn wall
then closein the space between the
two walls.
Then there's the lunch room
issue. Regulations require a
lunch room in the cheese plant
even though Taylor has only one
employee helping out.
"There was no provision in the
dairy regulations for a small plant,"
he says. He had to build a room at the
entrance to the cheese plant that's
called a "lunch room" even though
nobody eats there. It has proved
valuable as a type of mud -room
entrance, however.
Then there's the kind of guessing
game involved in dealing with
government officials these days.
"Ever since Walkerton (the water
tragedy) people will never tell you
what's right. They'll just tell you
what you can't do."
Taylor knew he was in trouble
when officials said they would "fast
track" his application and it would
only take two or three years. He had
been thinking of two or three months.
It took two and a half years to get the
licence.
With all their initial reluctance,
however, government officials at
both the federal and provincial level
praise the plant now as a model
operation and send others to see it.
He gets one or two inquiries a week,
many directed to him by government
officials, from people interested in
setting up on-farm operations.
"When I started this there was
nowhere to go for information. All
the things I had to find out on my
own."
One of the things he had to learn
was how to get small scale
equipment. Makers of cheese
equipment wanted to sell him 20,000
litre pasteurizers or cheese vats when
he needed to pasteurize only 1000
litres a day.
A consultant in eastern Ontario
helped put him in touch with some
small-scale equipment makers in
Europe and some equipment had to
be customer made. Now, with more
interest in small-scale production,
companies that formerly only offered
equipment in huge proportions are
have equipment for micro operations.
The effort was worth it
financially. If he sold raw milk from
his herd of 200 Toggenburg and La
Manchia goats (about 120 milking at
any one time) he'd receive about 70
cents a litre. By making it into
cheese, he gets the equivalent of $2 a
litre.
The operation is separated into
two entities. C'estbon Cheese buys
milk from Transvaal Farms at 80
cents a litre.
He got started in goats milk
production when he bought a top-
flight closed herd from New York
State. He wanted quality animals all
from one source and had to go that
far to find the size of herd he needed.
The animals get special
management (he has one employee to
help with the herd side of the
operation) to maintain the kind of
high protein/high butterfat milk
needed for the cheese production.
"I control the process from start to
finish", Taylor says of his vertically -
integrated production.
One of the driving issues is what
the herd is fed, he says. Feed can be
the difference between the off -
flavoured "goatiness" of soome goats
milk and cows milk. Many people
have said they can't detect a
difference between the goats milk of
his herd and cows milk.
The goats don't get any fermented
feeds because it can affect the taste of
the milk. The does also only get
alfalfa hay immediately after milking
so they have at least eight hours
between consuming it and when
they'll be milked.
Taylor grows a mixture of field
peas and barley to provide high
protein without the need for
soybeans. The high protein peas can
be eaten without roasting and without
grinding.
While the farm isn't certified
organic, all feeds are grown on the
farm and no GMOs are included.
The herd is under a holistic herd
health program with very strict rules
on antibiotic use. Antibiotics are used
only in management of the kids.