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The Rural Voice, 2003-07, Page 12Guest Column In Europe theg produce food, we produce raw materials Jim Fitzgerald is a Stratford -based govern-ment policy consultant for the dairy industry and a former editor of The Rural Voice. By Jim Fitzgerald The current devastating crisis facing the red meat industry over one mad cow has brought to the surface a number of issues that have been festering for years about the safety, price, and quality of our agriculture and food supply in North America and particularly Canada. (12 years ago, The Rural Voice was one of the first non-scientific magazines to detail the startling connection between sheep scrapies, mad cow disease and the devastating JCD disease in humans. And we were highly criticized at the time for advocating the banning of feeding animal parts back to animals.) One of the important issues that needs to be addressed is: is agriculture an industry like car manufacturing, or are we food producers? Over my nearly five decades of involvement in the agricultural sector, I've watched as the introduction of technology and chemistry on the farm has led to huge gains in productivity at the farm giving cheaper and cheaper raw product prices to processors and retailers. But at the same time this pursuit of "efficiency" has decimated the rural areas, stripping them of people and closing century old institutions, farmers continue on the treadmill of spending more and more on inputs while getting less and less for their products. But is that what the consumer wants? Canadians now, not only have the least expensive food not only in the world, but probably the cheapest in centuries. The average Canadian family of four now spends more in a month on their cable TV and internes service than they do on their monthly dairy and meat food basket! This and other events in the past several years is slowly bringing a realization that North American agriculture, and in particular Canada's, may have reached a 8 THE RURAL VOICE crossroads in how we feed our people. We've lost our trust of science. I didn't realize how far we have drifted from food production into industrial agriculture until our family finally had the opportunity to travel a few years ago. We discovered from Ireland, to England, to France and Italy, that many Europeans have a totally different outlook on food, so it's not hard to understand why they have fought hard to keep out GMO foods, as one example. On one trip. we had the good luck to be in Dieppe, France on a Saturday in late March for their weekly farmers' market (Canadians are still well loved there because of the huge sacrifice our troops made in WW II.) It's a city about the size of Stratford, so imagine a market so huge it would extend from the courthouse almost a mile up Highway 8 towards Kitchener. There was everything under the sun available from fresh fish caught that morning to sides of pork cooking on upright barbecues with the drippings falling on beds of golden potatoes underneath. One booth featured 59 different varieties of cheese, while another had over 20 different flavours of honey. Another vendor had so many kinds of sausages, which he happily let us sample, that we hardly needed to eat foi the rest of the day. Another Normandy farmer had huge loaves of fresh bread made in a wood -fired brick oven, as well as fabulous pastries she could hardly see over the top of. There were huge bins of locally grown carrots, apples and potatoes, sometimes with up to 10 varieties of each. Didn't see what you wanted? They would gladly custom grow it or bake it for you. We happened to be in England and Ireland shortly after both the Mad Cow and Foot and Mouth crises had decimated the English countryside, and from talking to both farmers and consumers, it's going to be a long time before those producers get their market back. Increasingly Canadians are becoming more and more like Europeans. We are willing to pay for great tasting, safe, locally grown food. If you don't believe it, drop into the local Zehrs store. In the new Stratford store they now have an organic section that's almost as large as their old store. And it's growing by leaps and bounds. In dairy for instance, we can't find farmers fast enough to produce certified organic milk. Our farmers have to go back to being food producers but we need help. The public wants safe, high quality, nutritious, locally grown food. Just ask them. To do that, we need a substantial change in the way we think about how a lot of things operate from our farm organizations right up to the processing and retailing cartel. We don't need more "APF" programs that put farmers on the dole and tell them it would be best to get bigger or get out. Why should a local farmer have to tear out his orchard because the big supermarkets won't buy his apples while their shelves are filled with produce shipped thousands of miles after being sprayed with who knows what? Farmers need a fair price for the time and investment they put into what they produce. We need a return to the days of the local cheese house with its unique cultures, the local slaughter house giving us locally raised meat fed locally grown grain and drug and hormone free. But it's not going to be easy. With the 80 per cent of grocery business now controlled by two players, it's going to be a tough slogging. But we must start, and soon.0 Robert Mercer is travelling and his column is unavailable this month. It will return next month. You can now reach us by email at: norhuron@scsinernet.com