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30 THE RURAL VOICE
of French cheeses, her favourite
being roquefort, a cheese made from
sheeps' milk. So when she was
contemplating what kind of farm she
might run she got wondering if
anyone in Ontario was making
sheeps' milk cheeses.
Jn
the spring 1998 she and her
husband Phil Coleman went to
England where there is quite a
revival of the artisan cheese industry
and milking sheep, a practice that had
died out in the late 19th century as
farmers turned to cattle exclusively
for milk.
They did a cheese course in
Scotland then Stephanie stayed in
England working with a woman near
Bath who made cheese on the farm
from goats' and sheeps' milk. The
dream was to come home and get a
dairy sheep flock going and then
make artisan on-farm cheeses in the
European tradition (they milk about
100 ewes now). The artisan cheese
movement is becoming important in
Quebec and the U.S. but is not
happening in Ontario. she says.
"Ontario has an incredible market
within a radius of our farm," she said.
There's the wealth of the Golden
Horseshoe as well as the ethnic
market, though it's impossible for
Ontario cheese makers to go head to
head with imports which have a long
tradition with those who have moved
here from Europe and come in at a
cheaper price than Ontario's
shepherds can match.
France treats its farmers much
differently than Canada, Bzikot says.
"They want to support them and keep
people on the land."
In Canada, by contrast,
regulations are put in place for big
business and small producers have to
find a way to live with them.
The main challenge of trying to do
something different like milking
sheep is that Ontario has always
based its dairy industry on cows,
Diament says. There's no tradition of
small scale ruminants like goats or
sheep or even small-scale processing.
It's difficult to convince people that
there's room for these small-scale
processing operations.
Still this tiny band of believers is
setting out to change the minds of
governments, farmers and
consumers, and perhaps even change
the look of the countryside.0