HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Citizen, 1989-05-17, Page 27THE CITIZEN, WEDNESDAY, MAY 17, 1989. PAGE 27.
Home heating technician answers questions
BY R. FORD McLEAN
HOME HEATING TECHNICIAN
WISE ENERGY CENTRE,
CLINTON
“The operating pitch diameters
of the motor and fan pulleys do not
produce the required RPM, which
in turn reduces your CFM.” [“Par
don me?”]
Is this the way you feel, after
having a problem with your fur
nace, or after a hot summer’s day
when your air conditioner won’t
keep you cool?
I can understand your frustra
tion. I will try in this short article to
answer some of the questions you
may have about heating or cooling.
Where to start ... how about at
the beginning?
We require some place to contain
the heat, or the removal of heat
(called cooling) a house, etc. Walls,
ceilings and floors, if properly
insulated, will control the loss of
heat.
Sometimes we think if we add
some more Canada Pink to the
ceiling we will solve the problem.
This is not always so. A ceiling, in
this area of 43° North Latitude, will
lose 41.9 BTU’s (a unit of measure
ment for heating and cooling) per
square foot per hour.
By adding three and a half inches
of fiberglass batt we reduce that
loss to 6.2 BTU/H. And at six
inches or R-19 we lose 3.7 BTU/H
and at 10 inches or R-30 we only
lose 2.3 BTU/H.
Insulation is very important, but
sometimes we put it in the wrong
places. For example, a basement
wall above the ground level with no
insulation will lose 35.7 BTU/H per
square foot. By placing one inch
only, of polystrene from the floor to
one foot below ground level we
reduce the loss to 10.1 BTU/H, a
good investment when heating or
cooling.
Each area of the house will lose
or gain heat depending on insula
tion, type of walls, and type and
direction of windows or doors. Do
you have a basement? Are your
heating ducts run through an
unconditioned crawl space or over a
garage?
To find out what amount of heat
you are losing or gaining, it is best
to have a heat loss/gain done on
your house to be able to decide
what heating or cooling require
ment your property has. At this
point you can then make some
intelligent decisions regarding your
heating/cooling requirements.
“Is my furnace large enough for
my house?”
My fuel bills are too high. A
number of years ago, when fuel
was relatively inexpensive, the
industry felt that if big was good,
bigger was better. Not so.
Once you have a heat/loss gain
done on your house, your heating/
cooling equipment should be
matched as closely as possible to
that size.
If it is too small, it will run loo
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long, and burning too much fuel
while trying to heat or cool the
property. This is not only expensive
from a fuel cost but also shortens
the life of the equipment.
If it is too large, it will heat or
cool the property too quickly caus
ing other problems. A furnace
which is too large will heat to the
height of the thermostat without
heating all the air to that same
temperature. When the thormostat
is satisfied it shuts the furnace off,
Because the furnace was itself very
hot, most of this heat is then lost to
the house up the chimney or
through other areas. The air which
was not heated sufficiently settles
around the thermostat, lighting the
furnace again, causing the problem
to re-occur.
In the case of cooling with
equipment too large, we cool the
air quickly but do not remove the
humidity. Because the air is full of
moisture we are still uncomfort
able.
The ideal equipment will pro
duce slightly more heat than we are
losing as economically as possible,
and in the case of cooling, remove
the heat and moisture to allow us to
be comfortable.
“My furnace can’t be large
enough because it blows cold air on
This is a common complaint. The
furnaces we use today tend to
produce heat slowly - for the
reasons mentioned above. They
also generally have larger fan
motors, which move more air ( we
need more air movement for cool
ing) and may, as well, be operating
at higher speeds.
Many furnace manufacturers are
supplying fan motors with two,
three and even four speeds. Be
cause we do not produce as much
heat as quickly, and because the
motors on our fans are larger and
moving faster, the air coming
from the vent feels cool. It does not
produce the blast of hot air we are
used to.
We may also be running our fan
motors continuously. This means
that the fan is running even when
the furnace isn’t. If the fan is
running on a slower speed for
continuous operation, your heating
and cooling bills will probably be
lower. The reason for this is
because hot or cool air will not be
sitting in one location (hot at
ceiling, cool near floor) but will be
used by being moved and mixed
with other air. This will allow your
heating or cooling equipment to
run less frequently.
What is the solution? Some
times, all we do or need to do is
move that easy chair slightly so
that the air does not blow on us.
Slowing the speed of the fan may
also help.
Heating and cooling equipment
is, with a heat loss/gain, designed
to keep your house comfortable for
you. It is recommended for heating
that we keep our thermostats near
68°F. up to 72°F., and with cooling
between 75°F. and 70°F., no
lower. If we are in and out of the
house the thermostat should be set
at approximately 10°F. below the
outside temperature. We will then
be comfortable when inside but not
suffer that great blast of heat and
moisture when we go outside.
“I have just remodelled my
house”, or “I have a new home and
now have moisture problems in my
basement in the summer and
winter, and around my windows in
the winter.”
To prevent moisture from leav
ing the house and getting into our
insulation, and causing its effec
tiveness to be reduced (wet insula
tion does not insulate), we have
been improving our vapor barrier.
This is a layer of plastic sealed
between the drywall, etc. and the
insulation. This vapor barrier is
sealed around doors, windows,
electrical outlets, etc. It keeps the
moisture in the house. It is kind of
like living in a plastic bag.
This may also cause other pro
blems such as unpleasant odors
from bathrooms, kitchens, bed
rooms or areas where moisture is
allowed to accumulate inside the
house. To solve this odor problem,
we must remove the unpleasant
odors and bring in fresh air without
losing the heat or cool we have
already produced at an expense.
To solve the problem of the
moisture, we must move this
moisture-laden air away from
where it is causing the problem,
remove the moisture and bring in
dryer air. Air at a given tempera
ture will hold a specific amount of
moisture. This is called relative
humidity. When the air is as full of
moisture as it can get, we are said
to have 100 per cent relative,
humidity.
As the temperature drops or the
air gets cooler, as it does in your
basement in the summer and
winter or around your windows in
the winter the air will not hold as
much moisture and is condensed or
squeezed out onto these colder
surfaces.
Moisture, as we know, causes
problems with wood and other
materials. Bacteria grows in moist
areas.
“We have mildew and odors,
etc.’’ This problem sometimes
seems to be exaggerated without a
duct system for moving air, as we
have with baseboard or radiant
heat. The problem may be solved
by bringing in a small amount of
cold, dry air from outside in the
winter, heating it in our furnace
and allowing it to absorb this
excess moisture. The solutions may
require more expensive measures
such as an air movement system,
ductwork and/or a mechanical heat
exchange ventilation system.
“I am warm enough with my
present system but my heating bills
are too high”.
Your heating system may be too
large or you may be able to use a
less expensive heating fuel. You
may also be able to upgrade your
present furnace to add a small
amount of additional heating where
it is needed, upgrade the delivery
method, install a more efficient
furnace or change to more econo
mical fuel. One or more of these
may be the solution to your
problem.
There are a number of heating
and cooling systems which are
readily available on the market. For
heating, your options vary. Base
board heaters, which can be sup
plied in the right sizes for indivi
dual rooms, are relatively inexpen
sive to install if you have sufficient
amperage. You can heat individual
rooms or areas with them. They
also have separate thermostats so
that you may have different tem
peratures in different areas. They
are relatively expensive to operate.
They give very little or no air
movement. They don’t require a
duct system so do not lend them
selves to a central air conditioning
system.
An electric furnace with duct
work is again relatively inexpensive
to install if you have the amperage.
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They are fairly expensive to oper
ate but very clean. Because of th'
duct work they will accept a centra
air system.
Propane can be burned in a ga
furnace by changing the nozzle,
standard gas, a mid-efficient gas
both requiring chimneys, or a hig
efficiency gas furnace, not requir
ing a chimney may be used.
The most expensive method ol
heating your home at present ir
this area is a standard furnace with
propane. This can be reduced
considerably when a high efficienc'
furnace is installed. The higher th<
efficiency the greater the cost ol
purchase. These units, because o
the duct work, will also accep
central air.
There are two types of oil
furnaces. The standard and th<
high efficiency, or Riello type
burner. To heat a home with oil
generally costs slightly less than
electricity.
Wood furnaces are also available
and they may be used in conjunc
tion with other types of fuel; for
example, a wood/oil combination
furnace. These will also accept
central air but special care must be
exercised if it is to be used.
Continued on page 28
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