Village Squire, 1979-09, Page 32TRAVEL
Niagara -on -the -Lake
has many delights
BY
MINDELLE JACOBS
A visit to Niagara -on -the -Lake, Ontario
is a fascinating voyage back in time to one
of the most interesting periods in Canadian
history. Located in a picturesque setting at
the mouth of the Niagara River, this little
town of 12,500 has, at various times over
the years, been a political, military and
cultural centre.
Originally called Newark, the town was
settled by United Empire Loyalists after
the American War of Independence in
1776.
Under the leadership of Lieutenant -
Governor John Graves Simcoe, Newark
was established as the first capital of
Upper Canada in 1791 and remained as
such until 1796 when the capital was
moved to York (Toronto).
Niagara -on -the -Lake also boasts many
other firsts, including the first library,
newspaper (the Canadian Constellation),
law society and agricultural society in
Upper Canada (Ontario).
The town played a significant role in the
War of 1812. American soldiers occupied
the area for several months in 1813 and,
when British troops advanced, they
retreated back to the U.S., burning Fort
George, at the east end of Newark, and the
entire town.
However, like the phoenix, Newark
survived the ravages of war and rose from
its ashes to become a resort town. Its idyllic
beauty, serene atmosphere and closeness
to major cities made it a popular tourist
attraction.
Today, thousands of tourists flock to
Niagara -on -the -Lake, caught up in its 19th
century charm and historic allure. A walk
down any of the quiet, tree -lined streets
reveals beautifully restored neo-classical
and Regency -style homes characterized by
wide doorways, magnificent sidelights and
transoms and lovely gardens. Although the
houses are privately owned, an annual
summer tour supervised by the Niagara
Foundation offers visitors an opportunity to
view the interiors of these historically
interesting homes.
Queen, the main street, is an attraction
by itself, an enticing combination of old
and new. In the middle of the street stands
an impressive battery-operated clock
tower, erected in memory of those who
died in the First World War. Adjacent to it
is the stately, three-storey Court House,
built in 1847 on the site of the original
Government House. The building is now
the home of the Court House Theatre
which shares popularity with the modern
30 Village Squire, September 1979
Shaw Festival 1 heatre, down the street.
Designed by Ron Thom, the 822 -seat
Shaw Festival Theatre was built in 1973
and is the only theatre in the world devoted
to the plays of George Bernard Shaw and
his contemporaries.
McClelland's is a grocery store that has
been operating since 1835. A large T over
the entrance is the traditional sign of
sellers of tea. Another interesting
landmark is the Niagara Apothecary.
Characterized by a large golden mortar and
pestle over the door, this 1866 pharmacy
continued in business until 1964, when it
was restored and opened as a museum. A
bottle of leeches might not be as effective
as a shot of pencillin if you're sick, but it
certainly is intriguing.
If one is visiting Niagara -on -the -Lake on
a Sunday, it's worthwhile going to church.
Three of the oldest churches in Canada are
nestled in this area.
On the main street is St. Vincent de Paul
Church, the first Roman Catholic parish in
Upper Canada. Built in 1834 and enlarged
in 1965, the church is an excellent example
of Gothic Revival architecture. St. Mark's
Anglican Church, originally built around
1804. was used as a hospital and barracks
during the War of 1812. Always of interest
to visitors is the flat axe -marked
gravestone that was used as a chopping
block by the Americans --for animal
carcasses, not heads! Just as fascinating is
St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church. The
original 1794 structure was destroyed by
fire in 1813 but was rebuilt in 1831. The
Greek Revival -style church is one of the
few in Canada with the original box pews.
After being put to the torch, Fort George
was rebuilt in 1815 and was restored in
1937. During , . summer months. visitors
may take guided tours through the fort
which includes officers' quarters, barracks,
a guard room, kitchen and ramparts. The
guides are dressed in 19th century
costumes as are the soldiers who,
resplendent in their red uniforms, may be
seen practising their military procedures.
Most people like to spend more than a
day in Niagara -on -the -Lake and several
regal 19th century inns offer tourists, not
only the historical trappings of an age gone
by, but gastronomical delights to please
even the most discriminating palate. The
Prince of Wales Hotel, formerly Long's
Hotel, was renamed in 1901 to honor
Edward VII's visit to Canada. The Angel
Inn, located behind the Court House, was
built in 1779 and was host to General Isaac
Brock and Governor Simcoe. It was rebuilt
after the fire and is furnished with early
Canadian furniture. The Oban Inn occupies
a large colonial house overlooking Lake
Ontario. Built in 1824, it was once the
private home of a Scottish sea captain.
Further information can be obtained by
contacting the Niagara Historical Society
Museum, 43 Castlereagh Street, Niagara -
on -the -Lake or telephone (416) 468-3912.
Millions of children desperately
need basic food. shelter,
schooling and health care.
Your help is needed.
Send your donation today.
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