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Village Squire, 1979-07, Page 32SQUIRE'S TABLE Waterlot rates high on list of regional restaurant delights All the men in our lives being busy, two unaccompanied ladies set out for an evening's dining at the Waterlot in New Hamburg. Remembering that the most famous of London's (England) restaurants was just bumped from five to three star rating for discourtesies to the distaff, it crossed my mind that we might be put in a corner and have carrots dumped in our lap, however we were prepared to strike a totally unnecessary blow it turned out for the feminist cause. The Waterlot in New Hamburg may mean a few minutes extra drive for area patrons of the Stratford Festival but the excellent fare and beautiful surroundings make the minutes well spent. The whimsical cream coloured house that is` now the restaurant was built in 1846, the historical note on the menu informed us, and the current owner has obviously made every effortto keep the modernization as unintrusive as possible. The elegant atmosphere of a wealthy Victorian gentleman's home commanding a splendid view of the gardens and river remains to be shared with diners. Each table had a dainty little bouquet, and original art by mostly local artists is everywhere to be seen. Many of the pieces were for sale, which seemed to us a first rate idea. If the surroundings granted a glimpse of the past, the menu was dominated by modern trends. A prologue promised fresh produce, non-fat skim milk, whole grain flour, and preparations which 'is conscious of the trend to lightness'. Although tempted by the prix fix four course offering featuring cornish game hen and wild rice, for $13.95 we opted for the a la carte selections. The left hand side of the menu offered a fairly numerous selection of hot and cold appetizers and soups, none of which could be easily eliminated. There 30 Village Squire, July 1979 were the traditional favourites. escargots and onion soup, along with pates, whole wheat crepes with vegetable or seafood fillings, cherry soup with red wine and yogurt. My friend chose 'le veloute de pommes,' a blend of apple, onion and curry in a cream and chicken broth garnished with nuts. I ordered la pain de poissons, a light and savoury blend of fresh and smoked fish delicately seasoned and baked, garnished with capers and pearl onions. Both dishes came exactly as described, something I no longer take for granted, and tasted quite as good as they sounded. The soup was chilled. smooth and refreshing, the fish loaf had a very pleasant texture and although the serving was generous, it was not at all too filling. The entrees were less numerous and interesting than the appetizers though the chef's choice of the day was frogs legs. so there was something for the adventurous. One lady decided on les brochette de pore, sauce aux pommes, described as 'a taste of la nouvelle cuisine' (the new French cooking that eliminates the rich heavy sauces and butter while attempting to retain the elegance and flair of the classic style). This dish is described is cubes of lean Ontario porc marinated in sherry wine, vegetable oil, vinegar, herbs, spices, braised and baked, then sauced with puree of apple and lemon juice. We are also assured the absence of animal fat, starch, eggs, butter and cream. The cholesterol conscious will, I'll sure, be delighted to find such a dish available. Unfortunately the porc was just a bit dry and not particularly spicy although the sauce was a delight. The other lady ordered le caneton aux prunes, one half duckling braised with herbs and spices, glazed with plum juice and brandy then served with madeira sauce and plums sprinkled with toasted almonds. Braising will not produce the really crispy skin that is one of the joys of roast duck, but the flavour and texture of the meat was perhaps improved. The fruity sauce and plums were deliciously spiced and neither too heavy nor too sweet. One of the areas in which The Waterlot excelled particularly was in the colourful arrange- ment of vegetables and garnishes with the main course. Roast potatoes, carrots and broccoli, lightly glazed with hollandaise plus a cinnamon red apple ring accompanied the meat. The vegetables were perfectly cooked and retained a happy little crunch. Again, the servings had seemed of formidable size, and neither of us have particularly large appetites, but after lingering over our carafe of imported house wine, and very nice it was, we found ourselves eyeing the dessert trolley with gleeful anticipation, rather than the whistful glance usually accorded sweets after a meal of the old cuisine. The dessert selection was neither large nor oppulent, but my chosen creme caramel was just as it should have been, and my companion's chocolate glazed cheese cake, (of the heavy German variety) was an adequate example of the genre. Without much urging, creme caramel being the lightest possible dessert. I concluded the meal with one of the many special coffees offered, this one dominated by almond liqueur. After our having sipped half of it, the waiter graciously diluted all the goodies with a little more coffee. The trouble with special coffees is that there is little room for the main ingredient. The regular coffee at The Waterlot was surprisingly undistinguish- ed. Nevertheless it was a truly fine meal, and we had none of the drowsiness that often accompanies heavy dinners. Perhaps the greatest compliment to the Waterlot was that when we glanced at our watches we were astonished to discover that we had whiled away three whole hours, yet at no time had we been waiting for service. nor had we at any time to go through the problem of catching the waiter's eye. Service was as prompt. friendly. helpful unobtrusive and unpre- tentious as any either of us had encountered. And the restaurant was quite full all the time we were there. I'm also sure that had we had any deadlines. every effort would have been made to expedite the courses. It would be a great pity to go to the Waterlot in a hurry. however. The place invites a lingering. Readers may be interested to know that vegetarian platters are available, and that the menu offers to attempt to accomodate any special diet or allergy restriction. The wine list is not huge, but a rare wine list is available on request, and each dish on the menu has a recommended white and red selection. House wine. imported and domestic, is offered by the glass or carafe. We were disappointed to see South African wines on the list. Cocktails offered included a number of delightful sounding concoctions, a few mixing fruit and champagne and recommended for a hot day. Certainly the Waterlot shares one of the top spots on my list of area restaurants to be returned to as soon as possible, perhaps for their enticing luncheon selections or Sunday brunch, or the special Sunday roast beef dinner and children under twelve are welcome at half price. The note on the menu states that on notice they will prepare any special meal desired, and that private parties and meetings are wel- comed. Our meal including house wine, before dinner drinks and the luscious liqueured coffee came to $42 dollars. One could have an imaginative three course lunch for six or seven dollars without wine, which considering the atmosphere and all over excellence seems a rare bargain.