Village Squire, 1979-06, Page 2544
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SQUIRE'S TABLE
The Terrace adds
a touch of class
to Stratford
Ori election night - of all nights - our
party of three set out for Stratford to
sample the offerings at the new restaurant
in Festival Square. The Terrace. The
obvious didn't strike us till half way there.
In the interests of democracy we would be
limited to water with our meal.
The restaurant on the upper level of
Festival Square continues the decor of the
complex. lots of exposed brick, pine,
wicker and plants so luxuriant as to make
one want to compliment the gardener as
well as the chef. One enters the dining area
through a large foyer comfortably
furnished with chesterfield, and wicker
chairs and tables presumably where
afternoon tea or cocktails are served. but
on this evening empty. The dining room is
large and airy with uncurtained windows
giving the illusion of being on a terrace.
We were delighted to see original art
throughout the Square and doubly pleased
to find many paintings and hangings in the
restaurant as well.
The menu at the Terrace is quite
extensive and offers a few unusual choices
along with a variety of steak for the timid.
Our party of three began with Danish
Port and Blue Cheese Soup. half dozen
snails "Carcassone" and a tureen of House
Pate. The soup was wonderful. full
flavoured. heady. a really exceptional start
to a meal. The tureen of smoothly blended
pate was also very good indeed, but served
with two measly slices of melba toast which
was replenished on request. The snails
were also inadequately accompanied
considering the lashings of garlic butter.
This is a world wide problem even in the
very best of restaurants it seems. 1
remember James Bond in one of Ian
Fleming's novels being unable to get
enough toast with his caviar at Maxims.
What 1 don't understand is why? Nothing
else in the presentation of the dishes or the
size of the serving suggested parsimony.
'Continuing on ' as the menu heads its
list of main courses. our trio elected
Boneless Chicken Breast Festival Terrace
with asparagus and tarragon sauce; Half
Rack of Lamb Djonnaise deviled with
mustard, rosemary and basil; and
Casserole of Rabbit, in cream and mustard.
The chicken was nicely cooked, but the
tarragon sauce was a particularly rich
white sauce (the tarragon was noticeable
by its absence) which unfortunately
separated on the plate. The Lamb,
however, was heavenly and perfectly
cooked with a little pink showing, just as it
should be. The glaze of mustard and herbs
made a tangy crust. The rabbit dish was
delicate, the cream and mustard sauce was
perhaps too subtle, but still very good.
Never did we think we would see the day
when any of us would have a surfeit of
butter and cream, but with the butter and
cheese baked zucchini accompanying each
meal (along with crisp little roast potatoes),
there was a bit too much richness.
Nevertheless, we proceeded to the
luscious dessert list. choosing strawberries
in Sabayon Sauce. Lemon Syllabub, and
after passing over the waiter's suggestion
of Zabaglione Gritti, Babas au Rhum,
(well, there was no chance of getting a
liquor either). The syllabub, (whipped
cream flavoured with lemon and nutmeg)
was tart and refreshing, just a touch
heavier than our other experience of
syllabub in England where it's a traditional
'pud'. The babas however was appalling.
Moral. Never ignore a waiter's suggestion,
instead of the light yeast cake soaked in
rum. there was what resembled a stale
doughnut topped with tinned fruit salad. It
was totally inedible and inexcusable,
though the waiter mentioned that the chef
was having difficulties with this particular
dessert and experimenting to find an
acceptable version. He graciously offered
an alternate selection, and this declined,
(since the others were by this time finished
and the results of east coast voting would
be available shortly), he insisted that we
not be charged for the untouched babas.
The coffee was served in individual pots,
a nice touch. no waiting for the second cup,
and was probably made from good beans,
but far too weak to taste them.
This restaurant has been only open three
weeks and little failures and discrepancies
are at this stage perhaps not surprising.
The waiter was concerned and his
comments indicated a general anxiousness
to get things right. Perhaps by the time the
thundering herds of playgoers arrive The
Terrace will have succeeded in making the
place a great treat. At the moment, the art,
the surroundings and perhaps 75 percent
of the food are great treats. The service
was particularly friendly, unpretentious,
relaxed and fun. Our bill for the three of
us. (without wine) was $37. It is certainly
possible to pay more in this area for a less
imaginative dinner.
The Terrace, Festival Square, Stratford.
Seaforth
Craft
festival
Sat., June 9
10 a.m. - 5 p.m.
AT THE
Seaforth
Community
Centre
FASHION SHOWS AT
1:15 p.m. & 3 p.m.
CRAFTS
HOME BAKING
LUNCH AVAILABLE
(LT:fie
Ciuth Liih
HAND CRAFTED CANDLES & GIFTS
Darkne & Dorothy Farnsh
CANDLES
IN ALL SHAPES,
SIZES AND COLOURS.
COME IN AND BROWSE
THROUGH OUR LARGE
SELECTION.
TWO LOCATIONS:
Hamilton
& Newgate
Queen St.
KINCARDINE -- GODERICH
396-7356 524-2909
June 1979, Village Squire 23