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Village Squire, 1978-11, Page 52r SQUIRE'S TABLE James' Inn a friendly place BY THE HOWARD HOPEWELLS On a recent journey to Stratford to deliver the last remaining kitten of a litter to our last remaining catless friend, we decided to celebrate the anticipated drop in the cat food bill by filling our own stomachs instead of furry ones. We visited the newest addition to the Festival City's flurry of "better" restaur- ants. James' Inn, across the road and down from the Avon Theatre, opened in June and after baptism by the Festival hordes, is settling into a calmer winter season. It is warm and friendly inside without being lavish. The wood wainscoting and brick fireplace are real (hallelujah), but the fire trying to be cosy, is only a gas fed flame jumping between fake logs (but who wants to shovel ashes anyway). The long, narrow main dining room is a trifle crowded with tables, and more than once during the meal we snickered uncharitably at the young man trying to impress his date in a very loud voice too close behind us. Being an old married couple, we find even the bread basket more interesting than each other. This basket, delivered to our table just after we were seated had among the routine selection of rolls two bran muffins (an indication of interesting things to come?) The entrees in the menu were divided between seafood, steak and beef although the chef's special for that day was rack of lamb for two, which only one of us wanted. Prices varied from $9 to $13. All but two of the appetizers were shellfish, so we both chose one of the exceptions, cold Spanish Gazpacho, she from a dislike of seafood, and the other because he had chosen shellfish as a main course. Gaspacho is usually a cold puree of tomato, cucumber and sometimes cream. The soup presented to us was blended to the airy consistency of a milkshake and tasted too heavily of lemon. The Caesar and James' Inn salads (included with the entrees) were, however, exceptionally good. The latter was delightfully different with mandarin oranges and toasted almonds, despite the substitution of pureed tomato for the promised, and preferred, avocado. After an appropriate pause (which we appreciate, despising the 'eat and get it over with' attitude that characterizes so many of the restaurants in this country) the main courses arrived: Veal Picatta and Cioppino, definitely the fanciest names on the menu. A large veal escalope lay under a sauce of fresh mushrooms, topped again with a generous gratting of two kinds of 50 The Village Squire November 1978 cheese. The french fries (also included) were marvellous. I know it is silly to rave about french fries -you would have to taste these to appreciate how different they can be from the crinkle -cut froze ns. Would however, that some of the lemon from the Gazpacho had been diverted into the Hollandaise sauce atop the otherwise good aspargus (ordered separately under the mistaken belief she would have room to eat it). While the one diner slipped quietly under the table murmuring something about Roman couches, the other unwrap- ped the fishy goodies of the Cioppino from their shells with the enthusiasm and dexterity of a five year old on Christmas Day, bemoaning the absence of finger bowls all the while. Ciopinno is a tureen of shrimp, king crab legs, oyster. salmon, and mussels in a spicy tomato wine broth that proved largely incidental to the dish. But the seafood itself was exceptionally good. There was a tempting selection of desserts, not all listed on the menu. and a few interesting special coffees. The one of us still able to tackle a sweet chose sherbet with grated chocolate and peppermint. but offered an occassional spoonful to the bloated body opposite who was still trying to down the last delicious mushrooms. Several cups of slightly better than ordinary coffee later we paid the $31 bill (before tip). which included a half litre of the house white wine. the house red turned out to be South Africian-which may offend the social conscience of many other patrons as it did ours. The hostess and waitresses were gracious and enthusiastic to the point that the atmosphere they create would be reason enough to go back. even if the food were less enjoyable than it is. James' Inn also offers an interesting luncheon menu in the $3 to $5 range. and has a cheerful banquet room upstairs which serves a buffet during the tourist season. Downstairs. a wine and oyster bar -something new to this area. will bre reopening soon. This perhaps explains the unusually extensive wine list this restaur- ant offers. even to the inclusion of Quebec as well as English cider. Are the Brits at the Festival missing the comforts of home. perhaps? James' inn is at 108 Downie Street. Stratford. Reservations (519) 271-8181. DINING INFORMATION The listings provided are a service to our readers. They are not paid adverti<.ements BAYFIELD THE LITTLE INN, Bayfield offers full course meals. It is open daily from May 13 to the Canadian Thanksgiving for lunch from 12 to 2 p.m. and dinner from 5:30 to 8 p.m. Reservation are accepted at 565-2611. They have a liquor licence and accept Chargex and Master Charge. THE BAVARIAN TAVERN, Highway 21 south, Bayfield specializes in German food. It's open from 12 noon until 10 p.m. It's fully licenced and accepts reservations at 565-2843. Credit cards accepted: American Express and Master Charge. THE RED PUMP, Main St., Bayfield offers gourmet dining ranging from $8.95 to $15.95 a person. Open from May 1 to November 1 from 4 to 10 for dinner only. They are closed on Monday and Tuesday in the fall. Licenced. Accept reservations at 565-2576. Accept Visa and Master Charge. THE ALBION HOTEL, Main St., Bayfield specializes in ribs, steaks and seafood. The noon luncheon special: from Monday to Friday is 52.65. Prices range from $5.00 to $6.00 per person for dinner. Lunch is served from 12-2 and dinner 5-7:30. They are licenced and accept Chargex-Visa. and Master Charge. Reservations are not necessary. BENMILLER BENMILLER INN, Benmiller, RR 4, Goderich Specialize in Fresh trout from their tank, Fresh ringed -neck pheasant and Fresh Benmiller rabbit. Price range: 3 -course lunches, $7.50 plus tax plus gratuity; 3 -course dinner, $11.50 plus tax plus gratuity; 3 -course dinner (Saturday), $13.50 plus tax plus gratuity. A la carte menu priced according to selection. Open for lunch from 12 noon to 2 p.m.; dinner from 6 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Licenced. Accept reservations at 524-2191. Accept Diner's Club, American Express, Visa, Master Charge. Licenced lounges and patio now opened on Sundays. BLYTH THE VILLAGE RESTAURANT, Main St., Blyth offers a Tiffany Dining Room where you have your own individual lamp over every table to give you privacy and a cosy atmosphere. Prices start with a breakfast coffee at 25 cents to a full course meal at $6.00 for roast beef. Open Monday to Thursday 6-10; Friday 6-11:30; Saturday 7:30-12 p.m. Reservations are accepted at 523-9566.