Village Squire, 1978-06, Page 45SQUIRE'S TABLE
A different
kettle of fish
The London Fishery & Oyster House, on
Talbot Street near the railway tracks in
London, boasts a variety of seafood
unusual in a landlpcked city.
It seemed a good choice for a Mainlander
and a Newf out on the town. It's a big
bustling place with large rooms half
partitioned out of a converted factory or
warehouse -complete with an oyster bar.
There is the usual nautical decor, ropes,
fishnets, lobster traps, masts, and a dory
named Sue that functions as a serving
station.
We were seated promptly by a friendly
hostess and served with a complimentary
tub of pate (mackeral shrimp and
sherry) -unusual and tasty. The menu -
mimeographed because it changes daily,
depending on the availability of fresh fish -
is crammed with choices and even includes
two non fish dishes 'for non -believers'.
The mainlander chose Manhatten
Chowder to start and a big bowl was
promptly ladled out of a huge pot from Sue
the dory. The soup was nicely spiced and
thick with fish, tomatoes, milk and
potatoes. The Newf�rdered her favourite,
smoked salmon, which turned out to be as
good as the stuff from home. There was an
ample portion of slightly smoked and
properly moist salmon cubes served on a
bed of crisp lettuce with sour cream,
lemon, capers and a sprinkle of red
peppers - a pleasant change from the usual
salty slivers on dry toast. Then a tossed
salad arrived -unexpectedly, since it wasn't
on the menu, including cherry tomatoes
and chick peas in a Tight dressing of lemon
and oil, which luckily we liked, as no choice
was offered. The white house wine -import-
ed -was quite a nice vin de table at $3.50 a
half litre.
The Mainlander, felt able, and indeed,
managed, to eat a bountiful , Maritime
Mixed Grill, consisting of fresh and
smoked fish, (which showed up as
excellent plaice and Finnan haddie), snow
crab legs, shrimp stuffed with herbed
crackercrumbs, Oyster Rockerfeller (it was
singular) scallops, which were especially
good and definitely fresh, rock shrimp in
the shell, three smelts with onion rings (a
bit doughy) broiled tomato, and good old
home made chips (French Fries for
American readers.)
The Newf had looked forward all day to
eating real fresh halibut, something almost
impossible to get in Ontario, and was
extremely downcast when the Targe thick
steak turned out to be dry and tasteless. A
second bite confirmed the suspicion that
the fish had been reheated, and indeed was
somewhat burnt on the underside. The
halibut was forthwith returned to the chef,
and, after what seemed a long while, was
replaced with a perfectly cooked piece,
complete with a new parslied boiled potato
that was worth the wait.
In lieu of dessert both the Newf and the
Canadian selected Newfoundland coffee
from the Special House coffees. Despite
the mispronounced name (will they ever
(earn to say Newfoundland like under-
stand) the coffees had lashings of rum and
whipped cream.
The entire meal with wine, and
rum/coffees came to $23 for two, which
despite the first halibut was excellent
value.
Hardly a restaurant for intimate dining,
with service a bit rushed, it's still a great
place for seafood lovers, and a fun place
with birthday messages for partying diners
printed on the programme along with "fish
facts" (an underwater Ripley), and gift
certificates are available. We certainly
intend to go back for the seventh item
Saturday Market Brunch platter for $2.89,
or maybe for all the Snow Crab legs you
can eat for $8.98 on Monday nights.
From time to time readers will write to
Village Squire to suggest that our
reviewers go easy on "advertisers". It
seems time to set the record straight on
just who is an advertiser and who not. The
restaurants listed each month in the small
print are not advertisers. These are listings
to provide our readers with information
about various restaurants, their hours and
specialties. These listings are accurate as
far as ' we can determine although
restaurants can change details without
informing us. We try to review the listings
often to help you. But these are not
advertisements. The only advertisements
are the block ads which appear at the sides
of these pages.
Frankly, we don't think our reviewers
have ever pulled any punches to please
these advertisers. Most of the advertisers
have come along since their establishments
were reviewed. After our editors being
threatened with bodily harm a few times
for harsh reviews, it is a little upsetting to
be accused of going easy on restaurants
that advertise.
DINING INFORMATION
The listings provided are a service to our
readers They are not paid advertisements.
LONDON
FRIAR'S CELLAR, 267 Bathurst St., London.
This gourmet establishment features Black
Forest Platter, Chateau-Briand, Whole Dover
Sole with gracious service and pleasant music.
Dinner for two ranges from $13.90 to $25 plus
tax. Hours: Monday to Saturday 12 to 12;
Sunday 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Reservations advisable
at 438-2129. Licenced. Accept: Chargex,
American Express, Master Charge, Carte
Blanche, Diners Club.
THE BARN STEAK HOUSE AND TAVERN,
1310 Huron St., London. This popular dining
and night spot features smorgasbord dining and
live entertainment in the English Room.
Luncheon Smorgasbord: $3.50 per person;
Dinner Smorgasbord: $6.50 per person. Hours:
Dining room, noon to 2 and 4 to 9 Tuesdays to
Fridays; 4 to 9 Saturday and Sunday. Closed
Monday. English Room: noon to 1 a.m. Monday
to Saturday. Closed Sundays. Reservations
accepted at 455-0810. Licenced. Accept
American Express, Diners Club, Chargex,
Master Charge.
AQUARIUS RESTAURANT, This spot at 1070
Wellington Rd. in London features a
fully -licensed. dining room, coffee shop and
banquet room, and the specialty is seafood.
Open daily 7 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 7:30 a.m. to 9
p.m. Sundays. Reservations accepted at
681-4430. American Express, Chargex. Master
Charge accepted.
GOLDEN PHEASANT MOTEL AND RESTAUR-
ANT. Located in London on Highway 22, one
mile west of Highway 4. The Golden Pheasant
specializes in home -style cooking. Open daily 7
a.m. to 9p.m. Sundays and holidays 8 a.m. to 9
p.m. Reservations not usually necessary. Master
Charge and Chargex accepted.
THE BARN STEAKHOUSE AND TAVERN.
This popular dining and night spot is located at
1310 Huron St., London and features steak,
smorgasbord and nightly entertainment. Open
4-10 p.m. daily. Reservations accepted at
455-0810. American Express, Diners' Club,
Chargex, Master Charge accepted. Licensed.
CHELSEA HEARTH DINING LOUNGE [THE
RAMADA INN). Located at 817 Exeter Rd.,
London this gourmet restaurant is open for lunch
Monday to Friday 12.00 noon to 2:30 p.m. and
for dinner daily 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. For Friday
and Saturday reservations, phone 681-4900.
American Express, Master Charge, Chargex,
Diners' Club, Carte Blanche accepted. Licenced.
BAYFIELD
THE ALBION HOTEL, Main St., Bayfield. The
old Albion Hotel takes you back to another age,
VILLAGE SQUIRE/JUNE1978. PG.43: