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Village Squire, 1974-06, Page 53Travel A new summer experience: trail riding in the Canadian Rockies BY JEROME KNAP The scene below was overpowering. The Tonquin Valley, long regarded as one of the beauty spots of the Alberta Rockies, stretched before our eyes. Dismounting from my horse, I reached into the saddlebag for my camera. The Tonquin Valley lies verdant, wide and open, high up in the shoulders of the Great Divide. Running in an arc from the southwest to northwest rise the rugged Ramparts, towering slabs of rock without a trace of vegetation. A dozen of us were on a horseback camping trip that started in Jasper National Park and continued into the remote wilderness areas outside of the park boundaries. In the southern end of the Tonquin Valley lie the Amethyst Lakes, their pale waters streaked with amethyst -colored shadows. The lakes offer fine rainbow and eastern brook trout fishing. Another scenic area is the Skyline Trail and Maligne Lake. A short hike up the mountains will bring the visitor into typical alpine meadows, which in early July are splashed with the colors of exquisite mountain flowers. From the Big Shovel Pass, the rugged Maligne Ridge mountains rise to an altitude of 8,000 feet. Many people have compared the grandeur of this area to that of the Grand Canyon. The only way to see the remote areas of Jasper and the even more rugged wilderness areas outside the park boundaries is by horseback and with a sturdy pair of hiking boots. Surprisingly little is needed in the way of equipment. Comfortable, European -type hiking boots with lug soles are a must. These should be well broken in. Clothing should be loose and comfortable. A rain slicker is a good bet because showers in the mountains can come almost without warning. Binoculars and a camera give added enjoyment. Certainly anyone planning to photograph wildlife should havt a telephoto lens. An angler should bring a medium -light spinning ' outfit or a flyrod with a good selection of lures and flies. All of your extra clothes and gear should be packed in a duffle bag or a backpack so that they can easily be tied to a pack horse. Your sleeping bag should be warm. The clear mountain nights can be chilly, even in early August. You don't have to be a skilled horseman to make the trip. Most people who go on such mountain rides have never been on horseback before. However, getting a riding lesson or two from a riding stable before the trip is not a bad idea. The horses you will ride are sure-footed and gentle. They are used to tyro riders. And they are saddled for you every morning. No doubt once you learn how to saddle a horse, you' will probably enjoy doing it for yourself. The cost of such a trip depends on where you want to go and what you want to see. A short, three .or four day trip of the Jasper highlights runs about $35 per person per day. Trips deeper into the wilderness cost about 545 per day. Each group is accompanied by a cook a horse wangler, and a guide who is a knowledgeable naturalist. Our outfitter was Tom Vinson, a mountain man, naturalist and big game guide. His address is P.O. Box 508, Jasper, Alberta. He is more than willing to put together a travel itinerary for any group, based on the group's desires and interests. Before we went, we were promised some of the most spectacular scenery anywhere and a good look at some of the big game animals of the western mountains. That promise was kept many times over. The scenery was spectacular. And while we hiked and rode along the mountain trails, golden eagles soared high over rocky ridges and bighorn sheep grazed in the lush mountain meadows. Golden -mantled ground squirrels peered at us, shy and inquisitive. We saw grizzlies ambling up hillsides and mule deer and elk browsing as dusk settled in the valleys. Mountain goats watched us from steep rocky crags, and once a lordly bull moose, its big sweeping rack of antlers still covered in velv(', let us ride up to within 60 yards of it. On some of the high alpine tundra, we saw small herds of mountain caribou grazing on vivid green lichens. The Circle M Ranch, just two miles east of the Jasper Park gate, offers guest ranch experiences with riding instruction, including one day rides to spectacular Charles Pass and back by sundown. Three-day pack horse trips to Mystery Lake for rainbow trout and the chance to see moose, elk, bear and mountain sheep in the Folding Mountain Ridge area is a western -style bargain at 530 per day. Harvey and Doris Cook are your hosts at the Circle M, Box 2056, Hinton, Alberta. Bring your own sleeping bag if you plan to tent out at Mystery Lake. There was no doubt in the minds of all of us when we returned, that the back country of Jasper and the area beyond the park boundaries is a place that everyone who loves wild things a^d wild places should %'isit. For further information on trail rides -ontact the Canadian Government Office of Tourism, Marketing Branch, 150 Kent Street, Ottawa K1A OH6. FESTIVAL OF ARTS & CRAFTS A SALE!!! Stratford Arena July 13 & 14. Original works Handcrafted articles by 50 selected Can- adian artists and craftsmen. A fund raising project of the Women's Committee of Stratford Art Association. mtwigirmmgii (*) The Coach House Travel Service GODERICH Appointed to serve you by all airlines, railways, steamship companies and tour operators Hotels, Car Rental, Travel Insurance No Service Fee 59 Hamilton St. 524-8366 VILLAGE SQUIRE/JUNE 1974, 15