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The Rural Voice, 1982-12, Page 11r v s f r 1 r At Chateau des Charmes. the growing of European grapes is an integral part of the wine making process. This cluster of Chardonnay grapes is unique in that there are three clusters on one stem. catalogued with special attention paid to the number of buds that survived the winter. After careful pruning and recording of the fruit that had set, a few mutants were discovered that had very positive features. The first was a Gamay which grew eight feet straight into the air before it required support. Grapes are not known to attach their tendrils onto themselves like this one. The other exciting feature was the loose quality of the cluster of fruit. The normal Gamay has a very tight cluster that stops air from circulating and growers have difficulties with fungus inside the clusters. With this new variety, growers could conceivably cultivate more plants per acre per acre with a fungus problem eliminated or controlled, higher yields would be enjoyed. John pointed out row upon rows of new root stalks, all prepared to accept new bud grafts very early next spring. The Chateau is preparing for its future expansion with further proliferation of hardy European stock. And there is more going on. Back in the winery, Paul has been doing some extensive work into a fermentation pro- ces called carbonic maceration which gives the wine a more fruity flavour. Paul keeps a close eye on every facet of the process and will not release a wine for bottling until it meets with his high standards. Little if any sugar is used and no water is added to stretch the wine to it pei iuissiblc maximum. Slow pressing of the grapes ensures that the seeds don't split and release a bittci taste and aging wines for a short period in imported French oak casks, arc just a sample of the many secrets that Paul ha,. in making his wines smooth. Each year the Chateau has doubled it gallonage and each year has sold out to meet the ever growing demand for its wines. Their first year saw a mere 6,500 cases of wine marketed comparable to this year's possible 27,000 and a projectzd figure of 40,000) for next year. Paul patiently explained what a vintage year is and .01at a year on the label THE RURAL VOICE/DECEMBER 1982 PG. 11