The Rural Voice, 1982-05, Page 30Drainage pays off
with better soil structure
Good drainage prevents unnecessary soil damage such as
compaction, smearing and crusting. Working wet fields with
heavy soils causes reduced yields and damage to soil
structure which may take years to reverse.
Also. equipment which becomes bogged down means
costly. time-consuming delays and often expensive dam-
age to the machinery.
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PG. 28 THE RURAL VOICE/MAY 1982
GARDENING
Pruning your plants
by Shelly Paulocik.
It's time to think about pruning, but before you take out
the saw here are a few ideas to keep in mind.
Pruning always dwarfs the plant by reducing the number
of growing points, yet it also stimulates growth at those
points which remain. The greatest growth response occurs
at the location of the cut. The dwarfing effect of pruning is
strongest if done after the period of active growth. for
instance late July. So, the time to prune varies with the
effect you're aiming for. Keep in mind any pruning after
August will result in succulent growth that's easily killed
during winter.
Every plant is different. One flowers early in the season,
another late, one fruits on one -year-old wood, another on
two-year-old wood; one bleeds in the spring; another
doesn't. Each of these characteristics will affect the manner
in which or the time to prune.
While narrow -angled crotches or multi -branched trunks
are weak and usually pruned out to avoid later damage.
these are sometimes the natural growth habit of the plant.
Our expectations of plants also differ. One we prune for
bloom, one for fruit, and another for shape. The age of the
plant and its health is also important. Has it just been
planted, has it been pruned annually, has it been neglected
for years? In each of these situations the amount of pruning
differs. Consider these factors and search out exact
information on your particular plants, in pruning books
(geared to our climate) available at your local library or
bookstore.
Here are tips on how to prune once you're ready. Tackle
the job carefully; the bark on most plants is now at a stage
when it's easily damaged. Some diseases, such as
fireblight, can be spread by infected tools. Learn to.
recognize these diseases and when you suspect problems
clean your tools with a dilute solution of ammonia (10:1).
Make all cuts neat to encourage prompt healing. Small cuts
should be made quarter inch above and angled towards a
healthy bud heading in the desired direction. To avoid
tearing when cutting a large limb, start with an undercut,
followed by an 'outside' topcut to drop the majority of the
limb. Then cut the stub off flush with the trunk.
Now is an ideal time to transplant most nursery stock.
The stock should be held in a cool, shady spot to prolong its
dormant state, and its roots kept in moist soil. Dig a
spacious hole in a location, suitable for the fully -grown
plant. It is critical that you loosen the soil to encourage root
growth and rapid establishment. Clean up any damaged
roots and position the plant in the soil at the same level it
grew before. For roses, build a cone of soil on which to seat
the "crown" of roots. After spacing the roots begin
covering with soil or a soil mixture, ie. ten to twenty per cent
peat moss. When the hole is two-thirds full, firm soil gently
around the roots. Water well to force out air and settle the
plant. Finish filling in the hole and firm again. A shallow
depression at the plant's base will collect water to help
reduce moisture stress. Although there's now some debate
over doing so, it's generally recommended that you prune
back a third of the top growth to compensate for the loss of
roots.
Shelly Paulocik graduated from the University of Guelph in
1979 where she majored in horticulture. She manages the
Garden Centre at the Belgrave Co-op on Highway 4.