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The Village Squire, 1981-09, Page 20Squire's Table Courtin' and sparkin' over clam chowder Summer is the time to celebrate what we've got. In Western Ontario that means our lakes, especially Lake Huron. So on a late summer evening we headed out for a restaurant with a spectacular view of the shoreline, and of a river marina, Sanders Tavern, Restaurant and Dining Lounge at the end of the beach road in Grand Bend. Sanders' dining room is a cozy pine panelled place with comfortable rustic wooden chairs and tables and huge windows offering the aforementioned view. But you can't eat scenery, no matter how gorgeous and we were eager to see how Sanders' food stacked up against good solid recommendations from friends. "You can't go wrong at Sanders", said one young couple who'd eaten there recently with young children. "It's a super place for a late night drink", a pair of friends who are courtin' and sparkin' said. Our first courses confirmed they are absolutely right. After relishes and two small loaves of delicious warm bread we had the best clam chowder we've ever tasted. (And we've eaten clam chowder up and down Cape Cod and all over the Maritimes.) The Sanders' clam chowder was meaty, milky rather than creamy, with just a hint of tomato and delicately spiced. Chunks of celery, green pepper, onion and potato were there too. A bowl of Sanders' clam chowder and the Lake Huron sunset are guaranteed to put you a little closer to heaven. A fellow diner tried the snails in garlic butter and they were just fine but not good enough to woo us away from that clam chowder. Sanders has a good variety of main courses, heavy on steaks and seafood with more moderately priced chicken and ribs. An interesting innovation in this area is the restaurant's vegetable plate, a large assortment of steamed fresh vegetables served with a cheese sauce, $7.95. Vegetarian or veggie fans of any stripe will love it. But on Lake Huron's shore we had to have fish, even though some of it was imported, Two of us opted for the evening's special, king crab legs at $14.95. It was a huge serving, properly cooked with drawn butter on the side. The catch of the day was local whitefish (poached in the oven) at 58.50 and our fourth diner ordered Sole Dorchester, a large piece of poached sole on a bed of spinach, all served with a very good cheddar cheese sauce. There was a problem with both fish entrees. Perhaps, a waitress said, someone with a heavy hand had mixed new spices that day. At any rate whatever had been sprinkled on top made the whitefish and the sole too salty to eat. The way our complaint was handled confirmed Sanders' reputation. Quietly and without protest our waitress took the salty fish back to the kitchen and quickly returned with two new entrees, minus the salty garnish. These second helpings were excellent, the whitefish firm but moist, the sole as near to fresh tasting as you'll get this far inland. All the entrees came with standard baked potatoes and a big bowl of sour cream. Our only gripe was with the canned yellow beans that also graced(?) our plates. Sanders has a Targe selection of desserts and although stuffed to the gills, we dutifully sampled blueberry pie and pistachio torte. Both were ordinary. For voracious eaters we'd recommend double helpings of clam chowder instead. We drank a litre of white house wine, a dry Italian that was adequate at $9.95. Sanders, which serves interesting snacks after 10 p.m., has a huge selction of exotic drinks, including a long list of Irish, Spanish, Amaretto etc. coffees. The restaurant serves lunch too, which you can eat on the patio outside, and breakfast for the summer months. The place must be hopping from 9 a.m. to well after midnight. Service throughout was excellent, both friendly and competent. Sanders is the sort of place that gives Lake Huron vacation spots a good name, and a relaxed, comfortable eating place. Dinner for four, with wine $82. Reservations accepted at 238-2251. For the campus from The Campus Shop ALL FASHIONS FOR 0 TO 14 YEARS THE CAMPUS SHOP 92 WELLINGTON ST. STRATFORD PHONE 271-3720 Open every day till 5:30 Friday evening till 9 VILLAGE SQUIRE/SEPTEMBER 1981 PG. 19