Village Squire, 1981-04, Page 26SQUIRE'S TABLE
Dining at Zurich's Dominion
There's a priceless old resource
scattered around Western Ontario towns
...the one (sometimes more) old hotel
that dominates Main Street.
Most are at least a hundred years old.
Some, if you look hard enough have kept
the architectural grandeur and dignity
that characterized Victorian Ontario,
through countless renovations.
These small town hotels are important
to the economic, and some would argue,
psychological well-being of local resi-
dents. They're often the only bar in town.
Quite a few of them, an intrepid explorer
who's prepared for some disappoint-
ments will find. serve very good food.
That's the way it is at the Dominion
Hotel in Zurich. The exterior of the old
building is pleasantly old fashioned. the
inside of the dining room is more
modern...the blond wood panelling,
tables and chairs are really good
examples of 1950 period styling, and the
food brings several generations of tour-
ists and locals back for more.
The Dominion Dining Lounge and
Tavern. as it's called now, doesn't offer
hotel rooms any more. A few years ago a
young London couple bought the place,
which the Johnston family had made
famous as one of THE places to eat off the
tourist trail on Number 21 highway.
And the new owners are lucky enough
to have the same cook who's been turning
out the good plain food which has made
the Dominion's reputation for the past 25
years.
We ate after the rush was over, about
6:30 on a recent Sunday night. Our
waitress, one of the owners, was welcom-
ing and so was the plate of cheese and
pickles which arrived with our before -
dinner drinks. But a rash of early Sunday
diners (the Dominion serves Sunday
dinner from 4 to 8 p.ni.) had finished off
all the baked chicken and ribs the place
specializes in. (Before you go in the
off-season. it might be a good idea to call
ahead, 236-4371, and make sure what
you've got your heart set on eating is
available.)
But the hotel's steak also has an
excellent reputation so we tried it. and
still set on chicken, ordinary fried chicken
pieces. The steak, a large T-bone was pan
fried, delicious and tender. reasonably
priced and the menu's most expensive
choice at $9.50. The french fries were
okay, the vegetables standard frozen
fare.
The fried chicken was ordinary and
adequate at $5.75. As well as vegetables,
both dinners came with homemade soup
&'juice. warm home -baked rolls and truly
oustanding dishes of cabbage salad. The
old fashioned kind. tart and tangy. with
home-made mayonnaise.
Other menu offerings include ham,
pork chops, roast beef, fish and chips or a
hamburger, all medium priced. In
summer fresh perch from Lake Huron is
available.
Sunday diners had also done fairly well
on the Dominion's home -baked pies by
the time we arrived so we had to settle for
raisin. It couldn't have been better. flaky
pastry and a sweet filling that even a
raisin hater could like.
The tab? $26, including tip. before
dinner drinks. a glass of wine and a beer
during the meal.
And the Dominion is upholding what's
best about small town Ontario hotels.
Another good bet is the Queen's Hotel
in Seaforth, which serves some pretty
good lunch time specials. usually priced
about $2.75. Lasagna, cabbage rolls.
macaroni and cheese and barbecued pork
hocks are among the selections. which
rotate. If you're corning from any
distance, call ahead to see what the cook
has planned, 527-0820.
We'II continue eating at Western
Ontario's small town hotels and recom-
mend the practise. The worst \‘ c'vc
gotten so far is a ho-hum meal. Some-
times, like at the Dominion, you get a
memorable one.
tr fir
17 WATER ST. ST. MARYS, ONT.
restaurant
and tavern
FULLY LICENSED
• Just a 10 minute drive west on Hwy. 7 from Stratford, located in the
picturesque stone town of St. Marys.
• The dining room boasts of its pleasant atmosphere & unique setting in the
former stone -hewn Post Office. Located directly across from the old Opera
House & just down the street from the largest outdoor swimming pool in
South -Western Ontario.
• Our specialties include a Smorgasbord, Canadian & Italian food, Charcoal
Steaks, Seafoods.
• Catering to all at reasonable prices we have food to suit every appetite,
priced to suit every pocket -book.
• All major credit cards accepted.
• Closed Monday. Open from Tuesday to Sunday.
• For further information call (519) 284-3424
VILLAGE SQUIRE/APRIL 1981 PG. 25