Village Squire, 1980-09, Page 7Another major step was to define clearly what the restaurant
would offer.
"You can't even begin without your basic policy," said the
owner. "You have to have a pretty fair knowledge of who your
chef will be. You've got to plan everything in this business."
An invitation was extended to Lacroix who had been chef de
cuisines at the Hilton Hotel Mandel managed in England. The
chef and four others came over to view the planned restaurant.
The chef and three of the four are still at the church.
A RESTAURANT IN A CHURCH
"When I came over I liked the idea of a restaurant in a
church," said Lacroix. "I decided in a couple of weeks."
In the beginning the chef may have regretted his decision, in
particular because of a lack of available items he finds essential
for his work.
"At first it was trouble," said Lacroix. "I use a lot of herbs
and at first it was difficult to find them, but then 1 found a person
who grows all of them for me. But in the first year I was really
prepared to go back."
The Chef didn't leave, and the restaurant grew.
"After four years we've improved a lot," he said. "Our
cooking is as good as any good restaurant in Europe."
It's valid to assume that Lacroix is not offering an objective
observation, but there is proof elsewhere. In the summer, for
weekend dinners, you need to reserve two to three months in
advance. Reservations have come from as far away as Japan.
While the primary way to judge a restaurant is by its food,
there are other minor ways to determine quality. One is to
venture into the kitchen and see the care and preparation that is
taken there.
ASK TO SEE THE KITCHEN
"One of the finest gourmets in France said, 'If you go to a
restaurant, ask to see the kitchen. If you like the kitchen, you will
like the restaurant'," said Chef. "1 like this idea."
"Once in Toronto I asked to see the kitchen and they wouldn't
let me," he adds. "It's very suspicious. They said the kitchen
floor was wet."
Immediately under Lacroix are three "sous Chefs", David
Williamson, Sheldon Russell and Andrew Thompson. Each is
in charge of his own corner, or area, of the kitchen.
"At the beginning of the day they get a menu in front of
them," says Lacroix. "I've got to supply them, the food has got
to be there for them.
"They know me and they know what I want and I know what
they can do."
Everything is prepared downstairs, which includes cutting to
proportion, then it is sent upstairs to be cooked.
Lacroix outlines three central areas of the kitchen's operation.
One is the saucier. It is here that the sauces, meats and fish are
prepared. A second is the entre metier, where soups, egg dishes
and pasta are cared for.
Third is the gard manger, or larder. All cold dishes, including
fish. meat and salads are looked after here.
"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well
if one has not dined well."
(quote from Virginia Woolf which is displayed on "The Church" menu)
That's a vast reputation, a large part of which finds its source
with the chef. Lacroix has been studying and practicing his art
for 25 years, since he left to study at chef's school near Geneva at
the age of 15. Schooling lasted four years.
While the skills and framework of the art are passed on at
school, the learning must continue. It's later, it seems, that the
artistic descriptions become valid.
Food tasting is an example.
YOU ACQUIRE TASTE
"To taste food is an art," said Lacroix. "You acquire taste.
Over the years you develop it, and there are some little tricks too.
"It's taught at school, but you must teach yourself. The person
makes a difference, too.
Besides the satisfaction the chef gets from serving fine food
there are other rewards, all involving people.
"I use a lot of students," says Lacroix. "They're very
interested and very good. I don't know what I would do without
them. Since we've been in business here nine or ten have gone
into the business." That's a rewardvshd there are others.
"Some people from Montreal wefe in yesterday," he said.
"They told me in Montreal you don't see restaurants like this,
which is a nice compliment."
Dining styles are still in their formative stage here in Canada
although in certain instances this has its advantages.
"Training staff is much easier here," says Lacroix. "Here we
have plate service, where the plate is made uo in the kitchen. In
Europe it's silver service. All the food is in silver trays, tnen it is
dished out at the table."
All this is an elaborate procedure and one not many Canadians
are familiar with.
CANADIAN WILL TRY NEW THINGS
"1 don't think there are many kitchens like this in Canada,"
says Lacroix. "Canadians have a lot to learn about cooking, but
at the same time they are prepared to try new thing
"I think we are getting people who are learning about food.
The first year we were here, people compared us to a
steakhouse, but there there's nothing much involved."
Lacroix's wife, Vivienne, is also involved in the cooking
occupation, but she works at the Old Prune restaurant in
Stratford.
"She worked at the hotel in Britain, so she knows the
business," notes Lacroix. "But a husband and wife working
together, I don't think is a good idea."
The burning question, the one that has to be asked, is what
about Canada's favorite restaurant, the one under the Golden
arches.
"1 think MacDonald's has a purpose anyway," says Lacroix,
"as long as it doesn't become a habit."
"A meal is a family event," said Lacroix, who added his family
in France always ate lunch and supper together. "You go to
MacDonalds, it's fast food, and you don't even talk. It breaks
down the family."
The intricate preparation that goes on at places like the
Church is more than many might initially assume. If tnat isn'f
art, it certainly comes close.
And you can talk.
VILLAGE SQUIRE/SEPTEMBER 1980 PG. 5