Village Squire, 1980-09, Page 6•
In the early silent seconds he lets his eyes study the stage. Its
subtle, beckoning design begins to tell a satisfying story.
The guest relaxes to receive all that will play before him.
Today scene one will be "Cocktail de Pamplemousse et de
Crevette Arrose de Vermouth", or, in its English translation,
"grapefruit and prawns cocktail perfumed with dry vermouth".
It's a flurry of colour, smell and taste that perks the guest's
senses and leaves him keen for scene two.
"You must start light," said Jean-Marie Lacroix, the designer
of the event, who is also know as "chef de cuisines". "It's a
gradual buildup."
The second scene is entitled "Poulet Robin et Isabella", or
"chicken stuffed lightly with zucchini, cream cheese and herbs."
This is an important scene and its preparation and design,
which was originated by Monsieur Lacroix, was a Gourmet
Magazine selection in 1979.
All participants play their parts well, stimulating the visual
and oral senses, and leading ultimately to a smooth and
satisfying climax.
After the performance, the patrons are sometimes permitted
backstage, also called the kitchen to meet the players and to see
where this fine drama originates.
"It's an art," says LeCroix. "You really have to feel for it. It's
very personal."
Jean-Marie Lacroix's studio is called the Church Restaurant,
on Brunswick Street in Stratford. The owner of this studio, which
opened five years ago, is Joe Mandel.
The first sight of Lacroix was shortly before lunch when he was
busily overseeing the preparation and layout of a buffet table. As
dishes were brought out he would look them over then position
them on the table. Several times, after viewing the display from
a distance, he would venture up to the table and move one dish
just slightly.
PRESENTATION FIRST
"The first most important thing is the presentation of the
dish," he said. "You see the dish first, then you smell it and_
finally, taste is third. Of course everything is important, but even
a la carte, it's presentation."
In talking with the chef, one gradually begins to understand
how a fine meal needs almost all the ingredients of a fine play.
You need to begin with a tight script, the menu, but even that is
dependent on other variables.
As a play needs capable actors, a fine restaurant needs other
players as well, from sous chefs to waiters. It also needs
atmosphere, an appropriate setting and preparation, all leading
up to the performance.
An important part of the atmosphere is in the kitchen and
preparation sections. A healthy atmosphere is maintained by
contented employees and there are 80 of them in various
capacities at the Church.
Every morning, as employees arrive at work in the kitchen they
stop by Lacroix, extend their hands to shake, and say "Good
morning,chef". In return, they are greeted with a friendly nod
and a smile. There's a similar farewell at night.
IT'S A TEAM
"It's a team. It's very important to work together," says the
Chef. "This is more personal. If people are happy it will be
reflected in their work."
The menu, or script, of course, is critical. Lacroix keeps his
clean and concise, and alters it periodically.
"What I try to do is specialize on a small menu," he said. "It's
better for changes. I find it is very important to develop a menu
where you can prepare quickly. I build a menu where I can do
high quality food in a very short time."
The restaurant is in the old Free United Church which was
built in 1870. As numbers of parishioners dwindled in the early
1970's an attempt was made for three years to sell the building.
In the meantime, near the end of those three years, Joe
Mandel, who had visited Stratford from England before, was
back for a stay. and the idea was initiated.
"By talking to people I realized there was a place for a good
restaurant in town," said Mandel. "In fact, I was given a great
deal of encouragement by several members of the board of the
Festival."
The idea sat well with Mandel, who to that point had been
involved in the restaurant business for 20 years.
About a year before the restaurant opened in July, 1975, he set
out to find a suitable building. After three years the sale of the
Church had been unsuccessful and had been given up. It was
pointed out to him. The idea appealed.
The first obstacle to overcome was the sale and takeover
The Church
which took nine months of negotiations with church re-
presentatives and the city.
EXTENSIVE RENOVATIONS
The next step was renovation which was an extensive yet
delicate project. While a basement had to be excavated, a
furnace installed and complete rewiring needed, at the same
time care had to be taken to preserve the essential character of
the Church's interior. Mandel, then, was fortunate to discover
Ted Comley, a local Stratford contractor who died a couple years
ago.
"He was a brilliant guy," said Mandel, "with sensitivity. He
was prepared to go day to day."
As a result of that care and sensitivity much of the subdued
church atmosphere was maintained, including the massive organ
piping which lines one of the walls and stained glass windows
which circle the dining area.
Where possible, original materials were salvaged and re -used.
Solid, one foot square beams, for instance, now frame a service
area.
PG. 4 VILLAGE SQUIRE/SEPTEMBER 1980