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Village Squire, 1980-05, Page 26SQUIRE'S TABLE Picture this. A Targe plush room, dotted with comfortable chairs and low tables. Ladies of a certain age in smart black and white uniforms bringing tea in silver tea services. Plates full of dainty sandwiches and cakes, scones, muffins and Devon cream. It's tea time, the most popular hour of the day at the famous Empress Hotel in Victoria, British Columbia. Now it's not possible for most of us to go to tea at the Empress. But it was against that high standard that Squire's Table measured the tea that's offered by two local establishments recently. (Enjoy the tea -time ritual without the expense of airfare to Victoria, was the idea). And so we headed on one of the early sunny and warm days of spring to Benmiller Inn, well known for its dinners and luxurious accommodation in a country setting. The setting is lovely. Tea is served in the lounge, in front of an open fire. That's great on a stormy day but the dark room was a bit oppressive and it would have been nice to sit and have tea in the Inn's sunroom on the other side of the building. That room was set up for dinner though, and perhaps it's unwieldy to serve tea there as well. The tea, Earl Grey, was excellent. Benmiller's tea is advertised as toast and jam, scones, cake and Devon cream. Thus we were a bit disconcerted when the waitress brought toast, and a tray with several jars of jam and a dish of Devon cream and then left. "Your scones and cake are coming", from her would have saved us wondering "is that all there is?" Scones did arrive, and they were plump, Tight and warm. But four scones and two pieces of Christmas cake made a rather large platter look somewhat empty, and lost the Inn some marks for presentation. The room was quiet, the setting cosy and our waitress came back more than once to make sure everything was fine. On a gloomier day we would have been quite comfortable. There was no rush, and we could have whiled away the afternoon with tea and conversation. The Devon cream was just great, and the jams, Graves, were fine. We did quibble a bit though at them being served from the jars. Jam dishes in the Inn's lovely china would have been a better choice when customers are paying $5 per person for tea. Benmiller Inn serves tea seven days a week, from 2:30 until 4:40, and reservations aren't required. Perhaps you could ask for your tea outside or in a sunny room, if you go in warm weather. The Little Inn, in Bayfield, also serves tea, but it's an a la carte affair, with several choices. We were offered tea in the parlour on a recent visit. The day was sunny and we enjoyed the Tight, bright, antique -filled room. The tea menu, posted outside the parlour door, lists muffins, English muffins, pie, cake and a cheese plate, among other things. We chose a cheeseplate and a slice of chocdlrate cake. The cheese plate was great, with several pieces of three different kinds of cheese, accompanied by two of the Little Inn's own delicious home made rolls and two bunches of cool, fresh grapes. Top marks in the tea department go to this offering, attractively presented on a small serving plate. The chocolate cake too was excellent. It was a huge slice, moist and light WW1 a creamy filling and fluffy frosting. The tea was adequate, though undistinguished and it came with slices of lemon, a nice touch that we'd missed at Benmiller Inn. Our only criticism was the fact that the spout on our tea pot leaked a bit. Service at the Little Inn was fine and attentive and best of all, the bill came to $4 for the two of us. Now that's value for money. We've heard that excellent teas are served elsewhere in Village Squire's coverage area. Harry Ten Shilling in Shakespeare and Stratford's Banbury Tea- room are just two places we've heard mentioned. But they, and others, will have to wait for future Squire's Table columns. For we're still searching, you see, for the perfect tea ...the one that matches the Empress' high standards. PG. 24 VILLAGE SQUIRE/MAY 1980 yl GIFTS AND HANDICRAFTS Clinto9 n Rattenbury St.482-3730 (just east of Albert St.) Mon -Sat. 10-5:30 Friday till 9:00 CLINTON'S NEWEST GIFT SHOP IN CLINTON'S OLDEST HOUSE A NEW UNIQUE GIFT HOUSE FEATURING: Kitchen gitt items calico for quilts handmade items teak etc. Over 50 spices and seasonings at great savings Smith and Jamieson teas. At the Board and Batten Personal Service is Our Pleasure