The Citizen, 1987-05-13, Page 13THE CITIZEN, WEDNESDAY, MAY 13, 1987. PAGE 13.
=Green Thumbin’=
Proper pruning is both
an art and a science
’* r
u
“Pruning is both an art and a
science,’’ says Horticulturist Ruth
Friendship of the Ontario Ministry
of Agriculture and Food’s rural
organizationsand services branch.
The “artist” in you will prune to
retain or restore the natural form of
the plant. The “scientist” in you
will prune to remove dead and/or
diseased branches, stimulate flow
er and fruit development, control
the plant’s overall size, and to
improve the plant’s structural
strength, health and vigor. There
is no ideal time to prune all plants.
“The correct time to prune de
pends on the flowering season of
the species, its growth habit and
your specific reason for pruning,”
she says.
Generally, late winter or early
spring when there is less danger of
bark damage, is the best time to
prune decidious trees, some vines,
roses and certain shrubs; at these
times of the year the plants have no
leaves and that makes it easier to
decide where to prune. Late fall to
early winter is the poorest time to
prune because the wounds may not
close during the winter months.
Fruit-bearing trees should be
pruned just after they have leafed
out. Trees that “bleed” profusely
such as maple, birch, walnut, and
yellow-woods should only be prun
ed when they are in full leaf
because the leaves will be using the
sap - thereby reducing the “bleed
ing” and promoting rapid healing.
Pruning while the trees are in leaf
alsomakes iteasiertosee which
branches are dead or lacking vigor.
Shrubs thatflower on the current
year’s wood, such as hydrangea,
should be pruned before they
flower. On the other hand, spring
flowering trees and shrubs such as
forsythia should be pruned after
flowering. (This is because these
plants produce their flower bunds
on the growth of the previous
season). By pruning at this time,
you won’t destroy prospective
blooms and it allows the plant
sufficient time and space to grow
and produce flower buds for next
year. But avoid pruning in late
summer because this could stimu
late growth which won’t be able to
“harden off’’ before the cold
winter temperatures strike.
As with any gardening task, it is
important to use suitable tools and
equipment. A sharp, properly set
pruning saw is required for the
larger cuts and will do a better job
for any size of cut than even the
best pruning shears. Pruning
paint, which was once a common
recommendation, has been found
to be of no benefit to the process of
wood closure. If used, wound paint
should be applied only to the
wound; painting the bark all
around the trunk can kill the tree.
Do not use house paints. Special
equipment and expertise are need
ed to pru ne large trees so you might
be wise to hire a professional for
these large jobs.
All pruning cuts must be made
so natural processes will heal the
cutsurfacescompletely and not
contribute to the death of the bud
immediately below the cut. “There
is a slightly-raised ridge of bark on
a branch called the branch collar
which is the tissue separating the
branch from the main stem. Place
your saw or shears in front of the
ridge and cut downward and
slightly outward. This can be used
as your guide to proper pruning,”
she says.
Hedges ‘living fences'
You might call a hedge a “living
fence.”
Whilea “livingfence” never
needs painting, it does require
special care. As it grows, your
hedge will need watering, pruning
and fertilizing to keep it healthy
and green year after year.
A hedge can be made up of a
closely planted row of deciduous or
evergreen shrubs, small trees or
even annual flowers.
Some hedges grow to a height of
only 15 centimeters, while others
can grow to 304 cm. or more in
height.
When selecting shrubs and
small trees, consider the size of
your yard and the hedge’s height at
maturity, says Master Gardener
Andy Langis of Sarnia, one of
several gardening enthusiasts a-
cross the province who has receiv-
edformal horticultural training
through the Ontario Ministry of
Agriculture and Food’s Master
Gardener program.
it is also important to select a
hedge that is hardy enough to
survive in your area. Check with
your garden centre for hardiness
information.
Prepare your soil about four
weeks before planting.
Making a trench about 60 cm.
deep and 45 cm. to 91 cm. wide
(depending on the size of the plant
material and its height).
Toensure good drainage, add 15
cm. to 20 cm. of gravel in the
bottom of the trench. If the soil is
rich, add a 10-6-4 fertilizer at a rate
of one kilogram per 10 square
metres.
Ifthesoillacksnutrients, add
compost and humus plus a 10-6-4
fertilizer, and water well.
Now, choose plants that are well
branched at the base and about
two-to-three-years-old (for a deci
duous hedge) and three-to-five-
years-old (for evergreens).
Check the plants when you
return home and if some of them
look dry, put them in water for
about one hour and then plant
immediately.
Plant the shrubs or trees about
two cm. deeper than in the original
container.
Jiggle the plants to settle the soil
around the roo,ts of the plant and
continue filling in the trench.
Water well.
Now, prune the newly-set plant
by about one-third.
Prune new conifers only by
nipping new growth in half.
Prune broad-leafed evergreens
as you would deciduous material.
but more lightly.
Prune broad-leafed evergreens
again in the second and in the third
year until your hedge has reached
the desired height.
Whenpruning, makesurethe
top is narrower than the base so
that the sunlight reaches all parts
of the plant.
Think ahead
when you
plant trees
When planning your landscape,
take a moment to visualize your
little nursery stock as a mature
tree. It looks small now, but when
fully grown, it could end up
touching power lines.
A tree growing into hydro lines
could cause power blackouts.
That’s inconvenient for everyone
affected! Or, adventurous children
may climb or be tempted to build a
tree house in it. And, that’s very
dangerous. They could come too
close to or even touch a wire.
If trees do grow into power lines,
hydro crews may have to trim them
justwhen they’re beginning to look
their best.
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