HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Citizen, 1990-10-17, Page 15THE CITIZEN, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 1990. PAGE 15.
Improper shifting may hurt engine
PROPER FALL MAINTENANCE and Minter storage can increase greatly the life
span of your motorcycle. One easy (but often overlooked) do-it-yourself chore is to
fill oil to the proper level before storing. Another is to adjust and lubricate chains to
prevent rust.
J 0 tips to help you get
ready for winter driving
The National Institute for Auto
motive Service Excellence (ASE), a
non-profit organization which ad
ministers national certification
tests to automotive technicians,
offers the following tips to help you
get ready for winter driving. Some
are a cinch; others require the
skilled hands of a professional auto
technician.
1. Getting started. All drivers,
even those who never turn a
wrench, should start by reading the
owner’s manual and becoming
familiar with the basic vehicular
systems. Motorists will be happily
surprised to learn that the manu
facturer has provided numerous
useful tips on driving, safety, and
maintenance. The recommended
service schedules should be follow
ed.
2. General cleaning/mainten-
ance. Autumn is the perfect time to
apply a protective coat of wax or
polish. Inspect all lights and re
place burned out bulbs. Replace
worn wiper blades - summer’s dust
and insects are tough on them - and
make certain you have plenty of
washer fluid to fight road salts and
~ie. Carry emergency gear such
jves, boots, blankets, flares, a
flashlight, etc.
3. Battery. The battery is called
on to work very hard in cold
weather (hard starts in the morn
ings, increased use of headlights
and the heater blower, etc.), but as
temperatures drop so does the
cranking power of most batteries.
Battery failure is a typical cold
weather problem. The only accur
ate way to detect a weak battery is
with the professional equipment
available at good repair shops.
Most people, though, can perform
routine care. Scrape away corrosion
from posts arid cable connections;
clean all surfaces; re-tighten all
connections. Wear eye protection
and rubber gloves to avoid contact
with the corrosive deposits and
acid.
4. Engine oil. The oil change is
one of the most vital maintenance
tasks, yet it is of the most
neglected. The oil and filter should
be changed as specified in your
owner’s manual - more often (every
3,000 miles), if you do a lot of
stop-and-go driving, carry heavy
loads, or drive long distances.
5. Cooling system. To help
prevent radiator freeze-ups and/or
overheating, the cooling system
should be completely flushed and
refilled about every 24 months, the
level, condition, and concentration
of the coolant should be checked
periodically. Never remove the
radiator cap until the engine has
cooled down. A 50/60 mix of
anti-freeze and water is usually
recommended. The tightness and
condition of drive belts, clamps,
and hoses should be checked by a
pro.
6. Engine performance. If you
noticed engine driveability pro
blems such as rough idling, hard
starts, stalling, and diminished
power during the summer, by all
means get them corrected now
before harsh weather sets in. The
air, fuel, and PCV filters should be
replaced according to the manufac
turers’ recommendations.
7. Heater/defroster. For your
comfort and safety, the heater and
defroster should be in good work
ing condition. To prevent poten
tially deadly fumes from entering
your vehicle, have your exhaust
system examined for leaks and
underbody (and trunk) inspected
for small holes.
8. Tires. Balding tires are a
safety hazard and of little use in
snow and slush. Tires should be
rotated about every 5,000 miles.
The air pressure should be checked
once a month; let the tires “cool
down’’ first. Check the sidewalls
for nicks and cuts. Examine tires
for tread life, uneven wearing, and
cupping.
9. Brakes. Regular maintenance
will extend the life of your brakes
and will prevent more costly re
pairs due to neglect. Brakes should
be inspected as recommended by
your manual, or sooner if you
notice pulsations, grabbing, noises
or longer stopping distances.
10. Finding good auto service. A
repair shop is only as good as the
technicians who work there. An
increasingly popular way to judge
the technical know-how of indivi
dual technicians is to look for
certification.
Perhaps you’re young and
you’ve never owned a car more
grand than a wheezing econo-box
with a stick shift.
Or perhaps you’re closer to
Social Security age, but you’ve
traded your parlor-on-wheels, with
its opera windows and automatic
transmission, for a smaller, thrif-
car with a manual tranny.
In any case, I bet you haven’t
given much thought lately to your
shifting technique.
for
motorcycle
maintenance
Some 35,000 motorcyclists, many
of them on classic Harleys, travell
ed cross-country to Milwaukee,
Wisconsin, this past June, for
Harley-Davidson’s 85th anniver
sary “Homecoming Festival’’.
Much of the discussion between
classic cycle owners centered on
care and maintenance of their
machines. Unanimously they attri
buted longevity of their cycles to
the time spent tuning and main
taining them, as well as to proper
off-season storage techniques.
As the 1988 motorcycling season
draws to a close in much of the
country, Harley-Davidson says it’s
time to give serious consideration
to fall maintenance and winter
storage.
Improperly preparing your
motorcycle this fall can lead to
annoying and costly problems
when springtime rolls around. It
also can greatly reduce the life of
your machine.
A few hours spent preparing
your cycle for its winter hibernation
are hours well spent, Harley-
Davidson says. Here’s all it takes:
•To preserve your fuel system,
fill your gas tank, add a fuel
stabilizer, and run the engine for a
few minutes to get the treated gas
throughout the fuel system.
•Because the fuel in the tank is
highly combustible, Harley-David
son advises against storing your
motorcycle in your home. However,
if you must store it in your home or
in an area exposed to open flames
(pilot lights, sparks or electric
motors), empty the fuel system by
draining the gas tank and running
the engine until it stops.
Coat the inside of the carburetor
with light oil and spray the inside of
the gas tank with rust preventive.
This will help prevent corrosion
and possible engine damage.
•Remove the spark plugs, inject
a few squirts of engine oil into each
cylinder and crank the engine five
or six revolutions. Re-install the
spark plugs.
•Fill oil to the proper level before
storing your machine. On Motor
cycles with remote oil tanks, such
as Harley-Davidsons, remove the
oil line leading from the bottom of
the tank to the feed fitting on the oil
pump and plug the line at the
bottom. Don’t forget to reconnect
the line next spring.
•Adjust the chains and lubricate
to prevent rust over the winter.
•Remove the battery and store in
a cool area, above 32 degrees
Fahrenheit, but don’t expose it to
direct sunlight or moisture. Give it
a slow charge about once a month
while it is in storage.
•Thoroughly clean, dry and
polish the motorcycle.
Your local Harley-Davidson dea
lership can answer any questions
regarding motorcycle care and
maintenance. They also can offer
tips and advice to add years to the
life expectancy of your motorcycle.
People who drive a car with an
automatic transmission can settle
back in their bucket seats and rely
on General Motors’ or Ford’s or
Mercedes’ engineers to figure out
the best time to shift gears.
But those of us with sticks in our
cars must make that judgement
ourselves. And often, out of bad
habit, we automatically shift at the
wrong time, particularly when we
come to a complete stop.
Consider the boy-racer’s techni
que. When he approaches a stop
sign or red light, he downshifts
through each gear - from fourth to
third to second to first - with the
engine wailing away at high revolu
tions per minute all the while.
In effect, he’s using the engine,
rather than the brakes, to stop the
car. The commotion may impress
(probably unfavorably) onlookers,
but the boy racer pays for it with
unnecessary stress on his car’s
mechanicals and with higher fuel
bills.
Then there’s the older driver
who learned to drive in the days
when cars had running boards or
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huge tail fins and pitifully inade
quate brakes. In those days it was
“Save the brakes,’’ not “Save the
whales’’.
Back then, brakes would over
heat after a few stops, and their
stopping power would fade. So it
made sense to downshift through
the gears before coming to a
complete stop - using the engine’s
power to decelerate, rather than
depending on the brakes alone.
On modern cars with disc-brake
systems (and even computer-assis
ted anti-skid braking systems),
however, the worry of brake fade
has faded away.
Each time you shift gears, you
use the clutch assembly and the
synchronizers in the transmission.
And if you frequently use the
engine’s power to slow your car,
you add considerable wear and tear
to the engine and burn significantly
more fuel over time.
Of course, using the brakes adds
wear to the braking system. But it’s
far easier and much cheaper to
replace a set of brake pads than to
rebuild an engine.
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