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Hedges are living fences 13
By Russ gomme
Evergreens and shrubs can be
used, in a variety of ways 'as
hedges throughout gardens. Oft-
en termed "living fences -, hed-
ges are, ideal to screen undesir-
able views; to divide areas of a
garden; to create private areas; as
backgr9unds to flower borders; to
define property boundaries and to
provide windbreaks.
When planing hedges, be sure
to select the best plant for the
existing conditions. Some hedge
plants thrive in sunlight while
others prefer partial shade. There
are a few which are "at home" in
damp conditions while others
grow better in hot, sunny areas.
Plants such as Caragana seem to,
grow better in, northern parts of
the province.
Some shrubs adapt well as
prunded hedges for example,
privet, while some appear more
attractive in their graceful, natur-
al profile for example, Vanhoutti
Spirea.Evergreens make splendid
hedges as they retain their vivid
green appearance all year. HoW-
ever, evergreens need time to
• grow and the initial cost should be
considered.
Ontario's climate permits the
use of a wide range of plants as
hedges. Select the type best
suited for your location and
pocketbook. Unfortunately, Bar-
berry hedges are no longer,
available as they are a host to
serious rust disease in grains.
When to Purchase
Early spring and mid-autumn
are .the best times to purchase
and plant hedges. Determine the
number of plants required by
measuring the total length to be
hedged. The higher the hedge is
to be grown. • the farther apart
each plant should be spaced.
Usually, nurseries, garden ce-
ntres and outlets have quantity
prices for hedge plants.
The more plants purchased, the
lower the price. Smaller sized
plants are a good buy, as they are
usually less expensive and establ-
ish themselves more easily in new
surroundings.
Hedges to be maintained in the
one to two foot range can be
planted as• close as 10 inches
apart while hedges in the two to
four foot range should be planted
15 to 18 inches apart. Taller
hedges should be spaced two to
fOur feet apart depending upon
the ultimate height.
How to Plant
Drive a stake in at each end of
the area to be hedged. Tie a cord
to each end making sure it is taut.
Use a sharp space to edge one
side of the trench. Place the first
spadeful of soil on one side of the
trench and the second spadeful,
which is likely subsoil, on the
opposite side. The trench should
be at least 18 inches deep. Dig it
deeper if the soil is not well
drained and fill in to an 18 inch
depth with stones.
Cut a wood stake the same
length that yin wish to space the
hedge plants and use it to help
achieve uniform spacing. Each
plant should be planted about two
inches deeper than it was growing
in the nursey. This will allow for
soil settling and also encourage
more new growth at the base.
Add top soil around the roots and
a mixture of subsoil mixed with Caragana (arborescens), 6 ft., like
peatmoss nearer the surface. heavier soil; Hardiness, North
Firm the soil around each plant and South.Hawthorne, 6-7 ft.;
With you heel. Hardiness, North and South,
Using the same cord and Laurel Willow, 6-7 ft., good for
stakes, establish a line to prune
about one-third of the top growth.
away. After pruning, thoroughly
soak the plants with water/ For
spring planting, fertilize the
plants with a balanced fertilizer
such as 7-7-7 at the rate of one
pound fertilizer for each 15 foot, of
hedge.
* N-denotes Northern Ontario
S-denotes SOuthern Ontario
Alpine Currant, 1-3 ft., Tole-
rates some shade, well drained
clay soil; hardiness North and
South. Euonymous Vegetus, 1-2
ft., thick growing: Hardiness
South. Boxwood (evergreen), 1-2
ft., thick growing; Hardiness
South. Privet (lodense), 1-2 ft.,
thick growing; Hardiness, South.
Caragana Pygmy, 1-3 ft., soft
textured; hardiness, North and
South. •
Cotoneaster Acutifolia, 2-4 ft.;
Hardiness, North and South.
Privet (common. 3-4 ft., darker
green foliage; Hardiness, South.
Privet (ibolium), darker green
foliage; Hardiness, South.
Vanhoutti Spirea, 4-6 ft., grown
informally and allowed to flower;
Hardiness, South. Japanese Yew
(evergreen, 3-5 ft., excellent in
well drained soil; Hardiness,
North and South. White Cedar,
3-6 ft., sandy loam is 'best;Hard-
iness North and South. Hemlo-ck,
4-6 ft., partial shade; Hardiness,
North and South. Amur Maple
(Ginnala), 4-6 ft., good drainage;
Hardiness, North and South.
moist soil; Hardiness, North and
South. Norway Spruce, 5-6 ft.,
Wed drainage; Hardiness, North
and South. Honeysuckle, 4-6 ft.;
Hardiness, North and South..
Early care
Makes
healthy
roses
Early pruning and fertilizing
are important if you want at-
tractive and healthy roses, says
Theo Blom, Ontario. Ministry of
Agriculture and Food horti-
culturist.
Roses should be pruned 'each
spring before the bushes leaf out
to help maintain the quality and
overall appearance of the plants.
Although each plant should be
pruned to its habit and amount of
growth, Mr. Blom says there are
some general guidelines.
Wait until the buds start to
swell, so you can determine which
branches are alive and which are
dead.
Don't cut below last year's
pruning. If you do, you weaken
the plant and the new shoots
won't be strong.
If the rose bushes'are new and
this is their fiist pruning, prune
them about 20 to 30 centimetres
(8 to 12 inches) above the ground.
In subsequent years, prune a bit
higher and remove all dead wood
and weak, twiggy growth.
It is important to prune climb-
ing roses according to their
growth habits. Cut off the thin
branches so the plant does not
have too many blind shoots.
Established roses will benefit if
fertilizer is applied during the
growing season. Mr. Blom re-
commends three applications of
balanced fertilizer in mid May,
June and August.
Apply the fertilizer to the soil
surface near the plants, then rake
or dig it under. A rate Of 1/2 to 1
kilogram (1 to 2 pounds) of
fertilizer for each 9 square metres
(100 square feet) of rose garden is
recommended.
Fertilizer fotninlas fot roses are
available at garden centers, but
you can apply the general,
purpose fertilizet used far lawns
and gardens,
Brussels, Ontario
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