Clinton News-Record, 1971-05-06, Page 11Chit two, ()it tarioi Second Section
Upstairs solarium
Mr. Engelstad, Hospital Administrator in board room
First floor solarium
May 12th is Hospital Day
and visitors to Clinton
Public Hospital that day
will find something new this
year. The hospital has just
completed a new addition
consisting of a solarium and
sun deck on the first and
second floors for the
patients,. also a new board
room in the basement. The
addition was made possible
by an anonymous donation
from a benefactor.
Outside view of the new addition
Garden notes
Follow these steps and planting
roses isn't difficult
Planting a rose bush. 1. Make a soil cone'at the bottom of the
hole; 2. spread roots over cone and set bud union at 'ground
level; 3. fill hole; 4, water well and mound 'up cone for eight
days.
R
i'litirsclay, May 6, 1971
106 Year - No. 18
ew addition at hospital open to public May 12th
BY A. R. BUCKLEY
Success with roses requires no
unique formula. First-class
plants and proper planting are
the two most important
requirements.
Quality plants obtained from
reputable nurseries or garden
centers give you a good start on
the road to success. The
following planting steps are easy
and routine, but should be
carried out to the letter.
Roses are not particular
about the type of soil provided
it is reasonably fertile, friable
and well drained. They will grow
satisfactorily in sandy or clayey
soil. Sandy soils require added
humus such as peat moss,
compost or well decayed animal
manure. Clay soils will benefit
from added organic materials
such as straw and peat litter
(coarse peat moss).
Roses need a place in the sun,
and it is also better to avoid sites
that are near trees or large
shrubs whose roots will deprive
the roses of much-needed
nutrients and moisture.
Bushes should be planted as
soon as possible. If you must
postpone planting, leave them in
the package in which they were
purchased and store them in a
cool place. At planting time,
unpack the bushes, put them in
a pail with enough water to
cover the roots, and take them
to their planting beds
Prepare the planting holes in
advance so that the soil will have
time to settle. Each hole should
be about 18 inches wide and 12
to 15 inches deep. To ensure an
enriched soil, add peat moss,
decayed leaves or well-rotted
manure to the soil removed from
the hole, using a ratio of one
part compost to four parts soil.
Place several inches of the
loose, prepared soil in the hole
to form a cone-shaped mound in
the center. Place the bush on the
mound, spreading the roots
naturally down its slope. Be sure
to give the roots enough room,
and if need be, enlarge the hole.
Place the bush on the mound so
that the bud union (the knotlike
swollen area where the top
growth or canes originate) is
about at ground level. Cover the
roots with soil, working it
around to avoid air pockets. Fill
the hole to near ground level and
tramp down firmly. Then fill the
rest of the hole with water and
allow it to soak in,
After the water has drained,
finish filling the hole with your
planting mixture and then
mound up around the cane to a
height of about eight inches.
This prevents the buds from
drying out before the roots are
able to absorb moisture. Allow
this protective mound to remain
until the top growth starts.
When shoots appear, gradually
remove the mound.
Roses are thirsty plants.
Plenty of moisture assures even
and steady growth, especially
during the hot summer months.
Water at least every ten days if
there hasn't been enough rain to
soak the soil to a depth of ten
inches. The best way to water is
to lay a shingle or piece of wood
under the end of the hose to
break the force of the water, and
allow it to flow gently until the
soil is saturated. Avoid watering
plants from overhead, as this
wets the foliage and encourages
disease.
Roses respond to regular
feedings. The simplest way is to
use a packaged 5-10-15
fertilizer and broadcast 'one
heapinrg teaspoon per plant On
the soil surface about six to
eight inches from the stem. Rake
in lightly and water thoroughly
to dissolve the fertilizer. Apply
the recommended fertilizer early
in spring about the time the new
growth is four inches long, again
when the bushes begin to flower,
and once more in July after the
first big flush of flowers.
Spraying or dusting should be
applied regularly as a
preventative measure and not be
left until insects are present or
disease has started. Once you
develop a regular schedule, the
challenge to keep your roses in
excellent form will prove highly
gratifying. Use a commercially
prepared all-purpose rose spray
or dust in the spring when the
first leaf buds start to form and
continue weekly, During the
heat of the summer reduce the
frequency to every ten days and,
after every rain.
As soon as the buds start to
swell in the spring, prune roses
as follows. Prune hybrid teas
back to about four buds from
the base. This cut should be just
above a bud that faces outwards.
Remove any weak or straggly
shoots, Floribundas should not
be cut back much farther than
the dead wood caused by the
winter injury. Climbers may
have some of their very old
wood removed if the plants are
too large. Ramblers should have
all their old flowering wood
pruned out, if this was not done
immediately after flowering.