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Clinton News-Record, 1971-05-06, Page 11Chit two, ()it tarioi Second Section Upstairs solarium Mr. Engelstad, Hospital Administrator in board room First floor solarium May 12th is Hospital Day and visitors to Clinton Public Hospital that day will find something new this year. The hospital has just completed a new addition consisting of a solarium and sun deck on the first and second floors for the patients,. also a new board room in the basement. The addition was made possible by an anonymous donation from a benefactor. Outside view of the new addition Garden notes Follow these steps and planting roses isn't difficult Planting a rose bush. 1. Make a soil cone'at the bottom of the hole; 2. spread roots over cone and set bud union at 'ground level; 3. fill hole; 4, water well and mound 'up cone for eight days. R i'litirsclay, May 6, 1971 106 Year - No. 18 ew addition at hospital open to public May 12th BY A. R. BUCKLEY Success with roses requires no unique formula. First-class plants and proper planting are the two most important requirements. Quality plants obtained from reputable nurseries or garden centers give you a good start on the road to success. The following planting steps are easy and routine, but should be carried out to the letter. Roses are not particular about the type of soil provided it is reasonably fertile, friable and well drained. They will grow satisfactorily in sandy or clayey soil. Sandy soils require added humus such as peat moss, compost or well decayed animal manure. Clay soils will benefit from added organic materials such as straw and peat litter (coarse peat moss). Roses need a place in the sun, and it is also better to avoid sites that are near trees or large shrubs whose roots will deprive the roses of much-needed nutrients and moisture. Bushes should be planted as soon as possible. If you must postpone planting, leave them in the package in which they were purchased and store them in a cool place. At planting time, unpack the bushes, put them in a pail with enough water to cover the roots, and take them to their planting beds Prepare the planting holes in advance so that the soil will have time to settle. Each hole should be about 18 inches wide and 12 to 15 inches deep. To ensure an enriched soil, add peat moss, decayed leaves or well-rotted manure to the soil removed from the hole, using a ratio of one part compost to four parts soil. Place several inches of the loose, prepared soil in the hole to form a cone-shaped mound in the center. Place the bush on the mound, spreading the roots naturally down its slope. Be sure to give the roots enough room, and if need be, enlarge the hole. Place the bush on the mound so that the bud union (the knotlike swollen area where the top growth or canes originate) is about at ground level. Cover the roots with soil, working it around to avoid air pockets. Fill the hole to near ground level and tramp down firmly. Then fill the rest of the hole with water and allow it to soak in, After the water has drained, finish filling the hole with your planting mixture and then mound up around the cane to a height of about eight inches. This prevents the buds from drying out before the roots are able to absorb moisture. Allow this protective mound to remain until the top growth starts. When shoots appear, gradually remove the mound. Roses are thirsty plants. Plenty of moisture assures even and steady growth, especially during the hot summer months. Water at least every ten days if there hasn't been enough rain to soak the soil to a depth of ten inches. The best way to water is to lay a shingle or piece of wood under the end of the hose to break the force of the water, and allow it to flow gently until the soil is saturated. Avoid watering plants from overhead, as this wets the foliage and encourages disease. Roses respond to regular feedings. The simplest way is to use a packaged 5-10-15 fertilizer and broadcast 'one heapinrg teaspoon per plant On the soil surface about six to eight inches from the stem. Rake in lightly and water thoroughly to dissolve the fertilizer. Apply the recommended fertilizer early in spring about the time the new growth is four inches long, again when the bushes begin to flower, and once more in July after the first big flush of flowers. Spraying or dusting should be applied regularly as a preventative measure and not be left until insects are present or disease has started. Once you develop a regular schedule, the challenge to keep your roses in excellent form will prove highly gratifying. Use a commercially prepared all-purpose rose spray or dust in the spring when the first leaf buds start to form and continue weekly, During the heat of the summer reduce the frequency to every ten days and, after every rain. As soon as the buds start to swell in the spring, prune roses as follows. Prune hybrid teas back to about four buds from the base. This cut should be just above a bud that faces outwards. Remove any weak or straggly shoots, Floribundas should not be cut back much farther than the dead wood caused by the winter injury. Climbers may have some of their very old wood removed if the plants are too large. Ramblers should have all their old flowering wood pruned out, if this was not done immediately after flowering.