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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Exeter Times-Advocate, 1942-10-08, Page 3THE gSTORTIMB^ABVPCATIg, THURSDAY MORNING, OCTOBER Sth, 1S42
Ivan Colbert Pays Visit to lonely
Island while on leave in* England
CpI. Ivan Culbert, son ofc. Mr. and Mrs. Myron Culbert, of Bid-
dulph writes a most interesting letter of a visit to the Isle of Skye
while on a recent leave* He had tea with a gypsy family and
visited a hermit’s cabin.
the only passenger, and we jogged
along the highway once again, Ar
riving in the village of Dunvegan,
I discovered the castle was two miles
further on and I had to walk K*
I had my trench coat with me so did
pot mind sb much.
Visits u Gattie
■reaching the castle gates,
|l had relations
not quite figure
choose such a
way place for leave, But X told them
it was purely fascination, and the
thrill of going to a place where very
few* Canadians have been and the
excitement of not knowing a soul
but making new friends and to see
new part of the world.
Mountains Reach Into Clouds
I arrived at the Kyle about 4 p.m,
land made for9 the docks, There
werp only a handful of people going
across and the trip was made in a
large motor boat which only took
20 minutes, landing at Kyleakin,
Isle of Skye, or commonly known
as the “Misty Isle”. How true it
is named. The huge funny-shaped
'mountains reach far into the clouds
| and at that time ofsday the clouds
are even lower. The sun was shin
ing brightly and the view-was most
•distinct,
There was a sort of bus waiting
for us and we piled in all set foi* a
2-hou-r ride to Portree, the largest
town on the island and the capital.
I again met up with a native of the
there, and could
out why I should
lonely, out-of-the-
isle of Skye, Scotland, I
August 16, 1942,
My Dear Home-Folks;
It wasAaje afternoon on the 11th
of August when I was handed my
third leave pass for the year. I
knew a month ahead that I was go
ing on leave and planned a trip
to Skye accordingly, Now, if you
look on your map, this Island is sit
uated off the north west coast of
Scotland, in what is commonly
known as the Highlands.
Two minutes after I was handed I
my pass I was oht of my tent in
civilian clothes with my uniform’in.
vmy case add necessary kit for nine
days, I struck the highway after
a few steps' and caught the first
bus to the nearest -railway station.
From there I proceeded to Seven
oaks, Kent, where I parked myself
for the first night. Up early on |
Wednesday morning, I caught the
first train to London, and arrived
there just in time to catch the train
to the north country. The train
was crowded with men and women
in uniform and civilians going to or
from holiday.
■Changing trains at Carlisle, which
is just at the mouth of the Solway; Isle and he was most helpful in de
Firth, I proceeded on to Perth, • scribing the various sights as we
which is about 60 miles north of
Glasgow, arriving at ten p.m.. The
next train for Inverness was due
to leave at 1.2Q a.m. and I found
myself a-place in the much-crowded
coach. One twenty came but the
train did not move. I patiently
waited two long hours, then made
enquiries. They told me’there had been a wreck further up the line-}
and they did not know what time j
she would pull out. So there was
nothing to do but wait-.- The can
teen opened for the Service men at
3 a.m. and I went in to get a cup
of tea. The first thing they asked
me was "Are you in the forces—let
me see your pass.” I decided the
’best thing to do was to change back
into my uniform and found myself-
a poorly lit, quiet corner and chang
ed.
In Scotland the sun rises very ear-
ly and it is not raining. Anyway daylight came about 4.30 and stillI
we -had not -moved. I had no towel
or soap with me, but felt very dirty
and made the best of it by washing
with shaving soap and drying with
a handkerchief. Time rolled on
very slowly. At last, at 11.2'0* a.m.
I felt a movement underneath me
and-I knew she was on her way to
Inverness. It was a lovely journey
through northern Scotland. The sun
was half shining and I saw sights
throughout the countryside quite
different from the many parts of
England and Ireland I have visited.
* At Inverness
Arriving in Inverness at fitfe p.m.
I inquired as to trains to the Kyle
of Lachalsh,
from to the
had to wait
morning, so
in the Y.M.C.A. and after a bite to
eat, took a tour about the fair town
and found it most interesting. Slept
in late Friday morning, but man
aged to catch my train and was once
more into a crowded coach. I met
up with a chap who knew the north
country fairly well and he was .able
to tell me all the important places
as we passed along. Several Scotch
men whom I conversed with en
route to Inverness asked, when I
told them where I was going, if
the port I was to sail
Isle. They told me I
until T 1.45 the next
I got myself a room
a
this ml^ty 1,810. Finally, they ask
ed me inside and X pulled up a chair,
which was a wooden boat. The
smell of the place nearly knocked
me over, but I stuck it long enough
to find out all about the way they
lived. I could see two double beds
in the place. Guess they sleep in
shifts. Their clothes, as you will
see from the pictures I took, are
almost as old as they are. The
children were dirty and without
shoes and stockings. But I must
say they were most hospitable and
it was auite an experience to talk
to them. They asked me to have
a cup of tea which I could hardly
refuse—thought it couldn’t be any.
worse than army tea, so the old
lady pulled up the table in front of
me—a home-made affair, and spread
the newspaper table cloth which
dated back some months ago, They
were very interested when I told
them what I knew about the latest
war news as they hear very little
about present conditions. When t
asked them the time of day they
laughed and said, “We have never
had a clock. We go by the sun,
when it shines,” From what I un
derstand of Highland weather they,
would only know the time about
twice a year. So taking their pic
tures, ’and getting an address to
send them a copy, I bade farewell
and was on my merry way.
At Hermit’s Cottage
The next stop I made was at one
of these old thatched roof cottages,
An old lady came to the door and I
talked to her a few minutes before
she realised X was not a fifth col
umnist or a Fuller brush man and
she asked me inside. When I was
satisfied with a good look around I
was once again on my way down
the winding highway, The -third
and last Sunday afternoon call was
on old Uncle«Donald. He is a bache
lor of 63 but looks 20, living in what
is known as a block house, high up
in the mountains. I was told about
this peculiar old man in Portree, but
very few people have ever seen him.
I was a bit nervous at first about
climbing .up to his shack as he has
never been away from it in all these
years and no one knows where he
gets the food he lives on. It was
the most funny shaped place I have
seen
sunk
and
both
ter. I knew he was in as I approach
ed the muddy ground about the
doorway, as smoke was pouring out
the dqor. The little dog outside, his
only friend, barked as I came near
er and this aroused old Donald,
pausing him to come to the door.
I told him I was a Canadian on
leave and would like to see his
house. He hesitated a moment,,
then shook my hand and said, why
yes, come in, have .a cup of- tea.
That sounded all right until 1 en
tered the first room and saw the
old cow peacefully chewing her
cud as chickens flew over my head
at the sight of a stranger. We
then entered the dining-room, a
place about six feet square, no more.
The fire smouldered in the centre
of the dirt floor and part of the
smoke was escaping through a 'hole
; Ip, the roof. There was a chair with
, only three good legs, a home-made
stable and the rest I just couldn’t
figure out. The rain had been com
ing in and small puddles of water
lay on the so-called floor-—not only
that, but the water from the guest
room, where the livestock lived add
ed much to the peculiai* odor,
again asked me to
tea, but I told him
some and • did
just then. He
tory and told
fore him had
house itself was over
Old- He also said Bonnie Prince
Charlie hid out there when every
one was looking for him,
remember anything about English
history you will know what I mean.
A very small room led off of this and
that was his bedroom. The bed was
made of a few boards with sacks
Here’s Quick felief frow
SINUS HUN
Merficlii©
Out Congest^ Area's
0HE best way to get relief from tortur-.
ing sinus pain is to .clear congestion
#om nasal passages and give sinuses a chance to drain. A few drops of Vipks Va-tro-nol in each nostril &
usuaUy^mough to bring this comfort-
: .O-roRrosis successful be- : wf-WSOWKNE eause it does three
! On
which I learned are never closed,
I went on into the castle, it is too
years old and has been in the fam
ily of the MacLeods all these years,
Up until this present heir to the
place, a Mrs. MacLeod of the Mac
Leod’s it has always been in male
hands. She was not in, unfortun
ately, but a very fine old gentleman
greeted me and showed me as much
as he could in the short time I had
to spend there. I will not attempt
to tell you everything he showed
me but will touch on the most in
teresting things to me.
First of all, the entrance to the
building, which is itself 'built in
three centuries, starting from the
9 th century. There never used to
be any doors but just a bridge lead
ing into a very small slit in the
nine-foot wall. You,see, it was used
as a fort* during many battles. The
other side faces the sea and one can
see for miles-
the convoy I
pass right by
me they saw
Churchill was on when going to
America. He shpwed me an old
toasting glass which, of course, is
badly broken, as they used to
break it each time a toast was made.
There are only two in the world
like it and I could see part of “God
Save the King” inscribed on it. An
other thing that interested me. was
the Fairy Flag, flown in a battle
in India years and years ago. The
Old legend goes that this flag would
be waved three times and each time
it would bring luck to the MacLeod
clan. The first time it was waved
was in India, when their clan became
victorious in a great battle. The
second time was only a tew years
ago, when a fire started in the
castle and the flag was removed, for
safety to the outside. At the same
time the wind changed and saved a
large portion of the castle from burn?
ing. It has still to be waved a third
time.
The crest of the MacLeod clan, by
the way, is the bull’s head. It seems
hundreds of years ago a MacLeod
came in contact with a wild bull
and was in
ther saved
th§^ rescue
neck. One
preserved i
castle in the form of a- drinking
flask with a marvelous carved sil
ver brim. This horn holds three
pints of whatever they used to drink
and before a new heir to the place
could call himself a man, he. had
to be able to drink this' empty in
one swallow.
A Bottle-Necked Dungeon.
He then opened a huge iron door
in the* nine-foot wall and we walk
ed sideways with the use of a light
into what is known as the bottle
necked dungeon. He dropped a
light down to the bottom of it and
I looked down some 30-odd feet.
They used to'chuck the bad boys
in there, put the stone lid on and
there are two very heavy stone
weights they put on the lid in case
they tried to escape. There was a
slit about half way down and a small
tunnel which ran to the kitchen.
This was to allow the smell of food
from the kitchen to reach the pris
oners thus making it all the more
horrible for them.
Dunvegan 'Castle,
catch my bus back to Portree and
spent the rest of the day seeing the
sights of the town. The majority of
the children in the town wear the
kilt of their respective Clans and on
Sundays the men wear them as
well.
Sunday morning up early again
and off to church at eleven. I went
to the Church of Scotland and found
the order of service very similar to
our own. One great thing I no
ticed was the large turn-out, espec
ially of young people. I feel safe
in saying I have never been in any
church in England where young
people attended in as large numbers
as they did here in Portree this
morning. The minister, Mr. Mac-
Kenzie, by name, spent some years
in America, preaching, and has al
so been to Toronto, Montreal, ate.
He is actually retired now, but is
filling in the present minister’s
place as he has been called into the
army as a chaplain.
< Visits a Gypsy Family
It was quite sunny this afternoon,
so I borrowed a bicycle and took a
circular 12-mile tour Of the surround
ing countryside, taking pictures as
I Went along of Highland cattle
.and other1 points of interest. My
first stop off for a visit was with a
family of tinkers. These are what
we know as gypsies, only they do
not travel about like our lot do.
Their house is built of sticks, grass
and canvas, with a fire in the middle,
the smoke escaping through a hole
in the roof. The particular family
I visited, Stewart by name, num
bered eight, including the mother
and father. They do nothing all
day and gd scrounging at night for
food. It took quite a while to get
acquainted With them as they speak
mostly Gaelic, as does everyone on
over here—one little window
deep in the thatched roof
one narrow doorway where!
he, his cow and chickens en-
He
have a cup of
I had just had
care for more
me his life his-
■ important things:
(1) shrinks swollen membranes of the noge; (2) helps clear out pain-causing
.congestion and (3) soothes irritation, , Many sinus suf- ‘ferers say it’s best WlCKS-pdiy
relief they’ve found. Try It!
As a matter of fact,
came over on would
it and the guide told,
the boat and escort
not
told
me his parents be-
Jived there and the
200 years
If you
used as bedding. Honestly, I do not
know how the man ever survives in
such filth and dampness. I had
quite a job to get away as I was
the first Canadian he had ever seen
and apparently the first visitor in a
long time, He spoke very good
English and I’m sure if he had a.
bath he would find two or three
shirts underneath it all, I finally
(Continued on Page Six)
. I'
**
.*
y
jogged along the one and only high
way. As we rode along, winding
in and out of the mountains, it came
to me that this must-be like a
spider’s version amongst a thousand
ant hills. .
Primitive Farming Methods
j. Swift-flowing streams could be
seen falling over the rugged stones
down the mountain sides and much
to my amazement there is hardly a
tree on the whole island. Just a
few around the scattered houses or
near the few and far between vil-
carried out on
The largest one
Their methods
The hay which
cut is done by
little individual
stacks in the field and when they
want to use it, it is carried in by
ropes on the backs of the farmer or
his hard-worked wife. Skye men,
by the way, have, the idea that to
morrow will do/ very slow and
steady, but they -are' -all a bonnie
lot and have treated me very well.
There are a few modern houses
throughout the Isle. I mean some
odd hundred years old and all of
stone of different shapes and sizes.
Most of them are comprised of two
or three rooms at the most. The
greater majority of the bouses are
thatched with wire overstrung and
large stones hung on the end to
keep the wind from blowing -the
roof off. Sheep are raised in
large numbers and can be seen high
up on the mountainside.' The next
thing I noticed was the color of
the water.*. Even the drinking water
is the same—a very dark brown,
caused by the peat bogs. Feat is
their only fuel and a very good, heat
it produces at that. It is dug from
the ground in cakes and piled on the
side of the highway and drawn to
their various homes to dry. I might
say no
spaces,
heather,
council
can help himself to the peat or pas
ture for the cattle and sheep. There
are no fences, but the animals seem
to know enough to stay within a-
certain radius of their dwelling.
On the bus an old man sat in
front of me and as we drove along
I beard what I thought was him
blowing his nose, but the second
time I heard it, I realized it
the horn on the bus, warning
sheep to take cover.
Good Eats at POrtree
At last we reached Portree,
the whole village, it seemed,
lages. Farming is
a very small scale,
is about 10 acres,
are most primitive,
'is just now being
hand,- piled in
Backache-Kidneys
Cry for Help
Most people fail to recognize the
seriousness of a bad back.
f The Stitches, twitches, hud twinges
ate bad enough and cause great suf*
foring, but back of the backache
and the cause of it all is the dis
ordered kidneys crying out a Warn
ing through the back.
A pain in the back is the kidneys’
cry for help, Go to their assistance.
Get a box of Doan’s Kidney Pills,
A remedy for backache and sick
kidneys.
"Doan’s” are put up m an
oblong grey box with our trade
mark a t( Maple Loaf” on the
Wrapper. .Refuse substitutes. Get(‘ Doan’s. ”
The T, Mnburn Co., Ltd., Toronto, Ont.
one man ‘ owns these open
which are one mass- of
hut they are owned by the
and anyone and everyone
was
the
add
had
turned out to see who had arrived on
the bus. Of course, With Canada
on my shoulder, I caused much ex
citement and they all staked at me
Ss if I were an animal escaped from
the
Stay.
was
thd
nbW.
very charming- lady, quoted me the
prices, and I was quite pleased, so
placed my belongings in my room
and sat down to the first meal for
the day. Much to my-surprise I had
two eggs, salad and heather honey
in the comb. I thought those days
had gone forever, but there does
not seem to be a shortage here. Yes,
even real butter and. lots of it, too.
The next day was .Saturday, up
bright and early to find it raining.
They say it only rains once in Skye,
and that is all the time. I made in
quiries and found out there-was an
old castle in the village
gan, some 25 miles away,
runs out. to the village
the morning and returns
once a day only and none on Sun
day. Respite the rain I got aboard,
zoo. Now to find a place to
The first place «I went into
filled up with people, so I tried
Portree hotel and here I am
Mrs. Robertson in charge, a
Of Dunve-
The bus
at ten in
by 2 p.m,
I
. great danger. -His 'bro-
his life by coming to
and broke the bull’s
of the huge horns was
and now rests in the.
So much for
I managed to
«
4 Tm glad I live in Canada. My family is safe here. There is no
Gestapo, no hunger, no brutal aggression. I have a good job, and
I am free, and unafraid.
“In many lands, the people have been robbed and beaten, their
money and possessions forcibly taken from them. Here in my
country, I can lend my money and know that it is safe, backed
. by all the resources of Canada, and that I will get interest on it,
too. I am gladly doing without some things so as to be ready to
lend every dollar I can to the country that has been so good to
me and my family.”
Every dollar you lend to Canada helps to protect you • • gives
you the right to work in personal freedom instead of under brutal
dictators ... enables you to live your own life, for yourself and
your loved ones.
Victory Bonds ate a good way to save * * < this country has always
paid back every penny loaned to it, with interest* Plan now how
you can lend your money . . * figure how you can save to lend
more. Back up the men who are fighting for your freedom •* ♦
let your self-denial show your loyalty to Canada