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Christmas
Themes
From Tapestry
Era Are
Revived
Today
Hus.oN •EX.Flopitok suAFOR.TH,
Crusades Inspired Europeans ,
The earliest wool tapestries in Western Europe date kv, from the 12th and 13th centuries — when the Crusades
had made Europeans familiar with the tapestries of the
East. The first professional tapestry workshop in Paris
was established about 1263, The earliest surviving product
of that workshop is a group of large tapestries showing
scenes from the Apocalypse, now in the Museum of Tapes-
tries in Angers, France. Qthers from the same period in-
clude ne called "Nine Heroes," now in. The Cloisters in
New ork, and the "Presentation of Christ in the Temple,"
whit Is in Brussels. All of these reflect the style of the
Franco-Flemish painting and book illumination of the
late 14th Century — a composition in tiers and back-
grOunds covered with initials or flowers.
"Arras" Means Tapestry
Flourishing tapestry workshops often ceased abruptly
— as did tapestry weaving in Paris, in 1415, after the de-
feat Alf the French by the English at Agincourt. But the
art would then be re-established elsewhere, in another
town— as it was after 1415, in Arras, under the. patronage
of the dukes of Burgundy. At Arras, the weavers won such
a reputation that the name.of the town became a synonym
for tapestry itself.
The mid-15th Century was a great period in tapestry
(c,' weaving, with important workshops like that al Tournai,
France, which produced famous tapestries such as •the • •
(Above) THE ADORATION OF
THE MAGI — French tap.
entry of the late 15th Cen-
tury. The Metropolitan
, Museum of Art, Lillian
Stokes Gillespie Collection.
reproduced by order 'for several houses of royalty. The
"Story of Troy," a series of 11 large hangings; which were
very composition of these tapestries shows they were
meant primarily for wall hangings — the artists deliber-
ately avoided perspective, keeping the overall proportions
to a single scale.
Raphael. Changed Technique
- •
With the Renaissance, however, the technique changed
completely, when the great painter Raphael designed tap-
estries in the manner of Renaissance fresco painting, im-
poMng the painter's laws on the woven designs. Raphael's
designs were much admired and repeatedly re-woven dur-
ing the 16th and 17th 'centuries, most often at the great
workshops in Brussels and other Flemish cities. Other
workshops were in Italy and France, later in Germany,
Denmark, and Sweden, and finally in England.
The weaving of tapestries continued to be a flourishing
ihdustry throughout the 17th Century, with new designs
by the great painter Rubens. for the Flemish workshops.
A new industry was established in France, under Henry
IV, and in 1662 the royal factory of the Gobelins was
formed — one of the most famous names in tapestry.
During the 18th Century, European taste moved towards
a lighter and more delicate style of decoration. Tapestries
began to lose favor, and the 'art reached a low point in the
19th Century. An excebtion was a revival in the 1880's by
William Morris in England, who returned to mediae"val
inspiration in tapestry design, just as the "pre-Raphael-
ite" painters and poets did in art and poetry.
Tapestry in Today's World
The revival of interest in our own time is partially at-
tributable to a reaction against poor quality in mass-
produced merchandise and synthetic fabrics. Another fac-
tor is that modern painting of the abstract school" trans-
lates well into tapestry. And again —,today's architecture
is stark and severe, and in need of color, just as were
mediaeval castles. Hence decorative wall hangings are
again serving a true function, even if they are no longer
heeded to keep out the cold.
Today we have not only the professional weavers in tra-
ditional workshops, but also the small-scale production of
the artist-weaver. Even more notable, perhaps, Is the
prominence of the individual craftsman, most often a
craftswoman, who expresses herself in the related tech-
niques of needlepoint and crewel embroidery.
Many of today's experts in needlecrafts are members of
the Embroiderers' Guild of America, an educational, non-
profit organization whose purpose is to maintain high
standards of design, color, and workmanship in all kinds
of embroidery and canvas work. Through its New York
office, the Guild carries on a variety of activities, includ-
ing a quarterly publication, a reference library, and occa-
sional contests.
The modern illustrations we show are courtesy of the
Embroiderers' Guild, as they are among the winning de-
signs in a Christmas Card competition held by the Guild.
They are interesting modern interpretations of the tapes-
try themes of the past.
J J..J.
•
has a complete selection of
records - - - th,e kind the
kids like and as well featur-
ing
Country• Western
Childrens
Rock Albums
Christmas Favorites.
BROOMES
FLOORCOVERING
PHONE 527-0420
SEAFORTH
J'
Today's great revival of tapestry work and other needle crafts shows a lively in-
terest in sacred subjects, just as many of the famous tapestries of the past were devout
treatments of Biblical themes, including the Nativity and the Adoration of the Magi.
Tapestry work itself has a long and fascinating history, as modern weavers and
embroiderers are discovering. It is defined as a hand-woven, patterned fabric in which
the weaver • hapes one area of color at a time. Basically a simple technique, which
can be accomplished even on primitive looms, such weaving has. been done ever since
early antiquity.
The oldest tapestry work known to us is Egyptian, where some of the cloth found
in 'tombs was patterned with lotus flowers and hieroglyphics. A comprehensive history
• would trace it through pre-Christian times to the fine silk hangings made in Byzantium,
and adapted from there by Islamic artists — plus the parallel development, in the Far
East, where tapestries were made by the Chinese and Japanese. But our own tradi-
tion is derived from the European, which has produced such exquisite work 'as the
examples reproduced here.
Although the most dramatic examples are large pictorial wall hangings, tapestry
has been used for many other purposes, such as ;Covers, cushions, and upholstery , . .
just as today's craftsmen make chair covers in needlepoint.
Wool is the most frequently used fiber, though details
are often done with silk or even gold or silver — and some
tapestries have been produced entirely in silk,
Large pictorial tapestries were generally made by a
team of weavers, the most skillful of whom specialized
in faces, They worked from a full size design, or cartoon,
made by a professional designer, which was traced in out-
line on the warp or vertical threads.
Tapestries used as wall hangings found a wide accept-
ance in mediaeval Europe — they gave warmth and color
to the stark stone walls of castles and. other interiors, and
they were a •type of furnishing easily movable from one
location to another.
rooP.,eiewmq )/ita\%1 :oki'mkokulmmii\o/Aftfwir" •
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