HomeMy WebLinkAboutClinton New Era, 1910-02-24, Page 94.
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YOH 45 NO. 05
°LINTON, ONTARIO THURSDAY FEBRUARY 24, 1910
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Cetise pd bola,
'grocacie Gown
makioo ucitti 1
Black Velvet Hat
• - •
'?hoto Copyright by Reutlinger
Exclusive Copyright New York Herald
00•000.0.•
• Mauve Cre.pe de Chine
theatre_Gown with,
, Sable Furs .
Maisot,Hrueseald§
Photo by RetiWijei:
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Rxelusive Copyright New York Herald
BY A. T. ASHMORE.
. HE reception gown is an ell
T
portant item to be reckoned
with in dealingwith the gnestion
of I his winter's (unfit, and is In
many respects materially differ-
ent from those that hove for sec -
?rat years been considered- correct. There
a rf' t WO $1111/0 distinct reception gowns;
4110 is the reception cosainne with skirt.
waist and coat to match, (ir 111e one piece
sown with outside wrap, and the other
is the afternoon gown designed for in-
door wear. It is (los hitter that it) re-
ceiving so much Al/1'1101W 111. 1110 ION'10.'11/
111•.011•111 111111.Will011 iS so exlpoirdy smart ...
•itotl ttractive.• 11111 tie fashion of
tv••aring a gown eut open at the throat be-
calm) popular tho -present model' for the
a Iternomr gown had her n mastiff -Tod S11111.-
1,10 as a theatre gott.n., lint in this alt''
.1' I' xt.ruyagont.! there must be a goten for
sell and 000S 001.11$10/1, :11111the slight
liffereti(e or the op -.1) waist marks 111
gewn sa1i.4:0etority. At! the same. flier..
many prat 11(.81 and incidentally many
exceptionally Well goWned WO111011 a111 intelligent owing!' to arrange to have
dh.. ono gown do iltity for both purposes.
Chiffon velvet, and in fact all velvets.
extremely popular this wintt.r, a incl for -
the arterncon gilwn,there are many most -
(harming models made• up in the light
pastel shades of chiffon velvet. These
are for indoor wear, but often there is ;
an outside /V rat 11 which makes the costume
111. linos are simple; altholigh it
must be admitted there are ninny of the
ugly, unbecoming skirts caught in arouncl
the foot with a large rosette, recalling to
mind old fashioned window drapery. The
double skirts are far prettier than these
stiff draped ones. while the long unbroken
linos are still chosen by the woman who
desires to he becomingly gowned. The
waists, while the folds of material- are
malted, nevertheless 01 close to the hguro,
all the Ilat embroideries' and trim-
mings are scleeted in preference to iiny
tither sole. lie it understood that every
possible at t 0411i011 18, /Mid to the 'corset and
to the tit or the gown so that it torture has
not provided a perfect figure every aid
must be given to producing the effect of
tine. The size or the waist is diminishing,
but the O1.I1gIrPratedly small waist at-
tained at the expense of big hips and
thitit 1(51)01 filshionab16eit her, and how the
desired results are obtained in many in-
siani-es is a :Were/ knon II only to the
corset maker, who is an artist, if ever
there was (toe. and who has also a
thorough and practical knowledge of
anatoruy.
Embroidery and Applique.
Exquisite in coloring are the newest
gowns of this order and embellished with
hue embroidery and lace appliqua, the
different models affording opportunity
for the display of either much or little
nue Work, as desired. With the plain
double or single skirt the embroidery on
the waist is the most important feature ot
the model. A tavorite model has the
tunic or overdress of some transparent or
lighter material, the embroidery is on the
lower part of the upper skirt and com-
paratively a smile amount is used ofi the
‘.11151; 11 1)1111,1 01 surto in velvet below
the embeoidery is an effective finish, and
leis went 01111 either match in color the
material of the gown. or be of a darker
shade or 4111 k, the strong contrast being
a favorite fad of the day.
There are snell absolutely contradietOrY
designs fashionable this season that it is
realty pus/ling to choose. With the plain
skirts, the draped skirts, MO pleated
skirts ?tint the gathered skirts it is' net an.
4.115y ,4,11.814.111 to decide. The gathered 1,
end pleated effects are in marked can-.
trasd 10 1110 (to tight lifting ones of Iasi
season, but exaggerated slenderness of.
tiglIrO 11111811)0 possase1 lo (nk11 (140
gathered or pleated skirt look at nil steitt•t
and becoming. "Sloppy" is a retest in-,
elegant eXpression, but it applies Mae.;
ttiibroidered.' Chiffon
• Velvet Gown• ;
'Photo by relix
. • •
'
iVinic Chiffon *own. •"with White Lace
and Black Velvet
Photo Copyright by artitlinget •
Brelatelve Copyright New York Herald
• Maas and Yellow 'Silk Voile
Gown.
Hoke
netts copyright by Reutlinger
riche:he Copyright New _York
vellously lo the ffeet given by 11 badly!
hung full skirted gown. The well•dress,,,i
woman to -'day utast look trim and well.
i unto(' out. The 801511 helm that finia-
t 0 lands malt( s 1 as 1111111 111O11.
W.110' TOOOIVOS
4,%rr linitennive. mid. ill. 11,.1. filo wonlioi 1 1 i 1 j. i. 1 ' ,t he gowns are 'sadly troubling the (14 ('11 is the surpliee effect 10 the folds of
the most ,compliments o a ) e o r ofcomp eteness I. tat mans ter . .
her appearanee does So front tile indefillu- 1. being attired after fashioe's latest average dressmaker, Who intS formerly iv. waist, \Attie the manner in which the
etat 40,1 tei etrneelA (there IS 00 other word folds on the skirt are 'crossed one over
011 OtV 1.011111 • 1
, • .
. •
• Photo ConTrightly Reutlinger
•Rielusive CopYright.Niw.,York Herald
• the other is almost impossible o descrip-
tion. •A•belt of satin or velvet, which can,
if so desired,be ornamented by a large
• , • manufactured buckle, is the 0017 , trim-
ming, the jewels of the wearer, being stip-
posed to furnish the necessary lighten-
ing of any 'too sombre appearance. The
contrast' of the black • with the light
color is certainly startling, but every-
thing depends upon how the fabric is
disposed, for tt can be draped or adjusfed
without either the black or the color pre-
„daminating, as desired, -while the hame
scheme can be worked out irr two shades
• of one color. Worked out in all black it
is too dark and sombre, :except if worn
./
Sleeve Designs Important In mourning. •
•
The sleeves of the reception.:tnel theatre
• gowns are an important consideration in
thee fashions now in vogue. There are
several different styles. • The' kimbno
• sleeve is 'More than •suggeste4 by. the
drapery on the waist, Which forms the
tipper part of the sleeve or falls over the
transpatent cap. Just above larlust,be-
IOWthe elbow' is • the favorite. -length, tor
to use) with only street gowns and even-
ing gowns, the former being generally
tented ovet to, the tailor. The theatre
gown of the moment is of such impor-
tance that it requires special erre and
attention, As has Often been said, it is
on the model of what was formerly
an informal dinner gown, meaning a gown
to' he worn at informal dinners and quite
distinct from the dimer or ball gown.
The tendency at present would seem to
be toward molting it more and more
elaborate, cut lower in the neck and with
shorter sleeves, but the smartest are as
unlike as possible to the ball gown. The
height of art. as exemplified by long un.
broken lines and draped folds. is to be
found in the newest models for this
style. and although at first glance the
price demanded for nn absolutely plain
draped gown seetns preposterous, it is
msy to disoorn otter an attempt is made
to tarry out the idea by. Aid of unskilled
ittilrfiendgsoWhent1
i17.ik
e airexeilttriemlYn
YgeinIDIey pla
•,,,d rose or nattier blue 'voile de solo.
. es.
4
the sleeve of the oPen—ifeele waist. One •
model, of• pink chiffon or net; is clew fib
ting, .but is covered with black or
net that is slashed to show the lining and .
18. then gathered or drawn into fine pleats
finished with a jewelled button. Then the
sleeve is .finished -a' broad band of
openwork jetor,jewelled pttssementerie.
There, are close "fitting- -sleeves .of pink
chittorefinished with a band of the jet ox
sPaSsementerie that,from a distance gives
the effect of the .81111 being bare, with a
btoad -jewelled braeolet. There are- half
sleeVes of the 'material to -.match the
gown,' short and elose fitting, and there
are floating sleeves on The same order as •
the once pOpular' angel sleeves, or there
will be worti:a scarf so draped its to.form
the sleeve. This •might have been ex•
pected, for 'the tunie • midi -dress has. al-- . •
ways the short, loose Sleeve, 'and then ' •
there'mest be the tight and longer under -
sleeve of lace or chiffon,. 'Details are tire
some, but again must it. be most erephati-
cally stated that it ceaseless attention -to
detail is the Price of,:the...Buished appear- '
axice required of the well:gowned woman
FASHION DTAILS. EVERY WOMAN SHOULD 'KNOW
of the gown. are of ecru ad. The only
other trimming on the frock is formed by'
the' embroidery motifs used on the bodice
at the waist and on the sleeves. The
style of . these •varies with ' the material •
of the gown. • For a serge. frock they ,
would be uresumably'ef wool embroidery:
for a velviit or cloth frock .of silk and for
Voile de sole. cashmere de sole, or satin. eif .
gold, crystal and spangled passetnenterie.
Icomp-2 -shows a fascinating design
for a simple house .gown, such as are
now se necessary since the separate
.Waist plays so Much' less a part in the
SEVERELt•simple in effect is1 the
model shown in figure 1. This gown
is not one to be worn by the woman
whose figure is markedly imperfect.
But for the 'woman whose every line is
grace and whose proportions are correct
it is a most desiiable design. There are
almost limitless possibilities to •a model
so simple and so elegant, for it may be
developed in a great variety of fabrics
and trimmed with a great variety lof deco:
rations, and it will prove a striking and
successful deign in every one.. .
Veliet, or broadcloth to be wean with
long coats of the same material is ex-
cellent for this model, which is particu-
larly suitable for Wear 'with a long close
fitting outer garment. Cashmere de sole,
satin, heavy crepe, &c., may all be suc-
cessfully used for this design. This also
Is one of the few designs which may be
used for a frock of winter serge, because
the lines are so simple and the tritilming
so fiat that the effect will not be bulky
or eumbersome-when worn with a coat
of the same, as, more elaborate =his
might be. •
The square Chernisette and high collar
iIOtilt i.-& filiVSEELIC filli01411 DESIGN.
inGttitt 2, -GOWN I:31r CORAL OASHIINitil,
Wardrobe than formerly. The design
shown was developed 'in tore.' eashniere
de sole triMmed with black satin, net and
We, The chemisette and high collar
are of ecru net trimmed with a deep band
of cream colored late. Mack satin is
used for the border of the themisette,
Which is in reality a scarf with long
fringed ends held in by a gold brickle.
The wide girdle also is of the black satin
draped,
The sleeves of this model are intereqt.
Ing _ because they ore 'absolutely simple
and yet are not stiff nor tailor made. Tde
produce the soft, full 'effect noticeable on
the upper part of the -sleevethe,material
is laid in shallow horizontal Welts on the
outer side of the arm. This makes the
under.part of the upper sleeve quite