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Home My WebLink AboutThe Huron Expositor, 1959-01-23, Page 11{IMITE VERY GOOD WISH; tor BRIGHT' AND ' PROSPEROUS FUTURE ur [W MODERN FACTI (By Eleanor M: Rutty and' Ruth Kerr Fries,. in Boot "and Shoe Recorder) From 1882 onward to the present day, women's dress has continued to reflect the changes in modes of living; -which havc taken—place in the United States - and all • over. the globe. Clothes .:of 1882; were over, encumbered by tradi aT inter- linings, nterlinings,.boniings. , and: double.` :petti- coats. But skirts were ;moving, up a fraction to show the ankles, and this trend continued in fits and starts up to'the present ,day of standardized mid-calf sldrt lengths.. All through the pa -St eventy-five years "`the relationsW between hemlines and shoe lines has been very close periods, when skirts -are shorter;: -the shoe -•becomes more -prominent -and awvhole flock of° new: footwear, fashions 'comes' in to view When the skirts have come „to the floor, and 'shoes no ,longer show to - advantage; foot- Wear -fashions go into eelipse.., ' 1882: This was the period of the., ;bustle..with 'exaggerated draping and' , treatment` of`the: skirt; as=el = a .borate.;`:. as, the, window ;draperies. Waists were very -tiny, sleeves' slim and collars, high. ; Hair :was, rather short and fringed, in front but young girls:w,ore soft curls to the shoulders., The hats were; ex- tremely decorative, tilted forwa?d often,iiedinuler the_chinwith snide., 'ribbons; extremely .sombre. for, older. ,wo- men. Queen Victories` mourning bonnet was. a favorite .;'with 'older` `womnn.,-Skirts-;were -above anile-: length' and •exposed, more of the, feet.Evening. dresses,: had: Jong, In addition to -more sports; many, -Americans; took the "Grand TOM -7'T Entirely new types, of. nautical sum mer, fashions developed, at New., port and: the European spas,. -but very frivolous for ladies,. es n draperies', eliminated from skirts. New popularity, . of croquet, lawn tennis, boating andvacations, at the; seaside. influenced sulniner clothes especially. Women carried flat pocket books. They had short- er -••skirts. for riding bicycles, and the more daring even, worebloom- ers or' knicker"bockerwith• plaid es and.ferlora fiats Shopsre mo e generally available in great- er variety because of the r, new manufacturing, , methods in, the flourishing New England factories now engaged in the production of ready-made shoes. Buckled pumps, one-strapsand two -straps, low-cut laced or -buttoned -boots were .day; time styles. • Afternoon shoes and, evening shoes were very fashion- able with pale f awn.,or_gray_ cloth tops to 'Match the" -delicate -Ione of the kid gloves. Satins. evening slip- pers had:.fringed ribbon " bows; Shapes continued • slender • and slightly, rounded - at toe .or with squared=off-tip. -Contrastlnset-tips` and straight tipsy braiding, - em-broidery= and ,beading decorated: new shoe models. Heels :were ap.-' -proximately 1Q/8'. to 14/8,',. with slight' breasting tr -turn- ,-ypesr-in- solid leather' fax daytime, shoes:,' 'rere worn:' in other places as,•welL Popular ,colors xveae: the 'exgniaite mauves pinks, -blues - and pale grays worn by the beautiful Prin ,Cess Alexandra, entirely `different from the heavy Victorian colors. These new•rcolors were. to con nue;' in pep'ularityduring the Edwardian' trains • =Over e1a`borate -,dresses were worn with cloaks ;and.cape . coats. E? ws, osettes--=and-ribbons were ,..used ' profusely: on dresses and.hats, and even:On . shoes. New' lower cut • Baimoral button. or, laced boots .w:ere• the fashion. Toes .were slender :,and slightly squared at the ;tip Heels were. lit tle x2/8 block heels..Rosette pumps and strap shoes were. Band -turned with . delicate soles, but the new Goodyea r .Welt '`construction was used for.: the. boots In '1,887.-.a. revolution in shoe fit- ting in. Ameriea was made possible by.the.,,adoption• of the new. size schedules ata retailers''Meeting ng in Philadelphia:' These were; care :Fully. measured base; izes ';with numerical. lengths in half .and full sues, •and: -widths determined. by alphabetical' terms, A: to 7?.- Lefts and rights were now";established as part of the size standards • Up to this time individual deszgiiers and model snake"rs `had'used their ownrindividuallmeasurements when making shoes' for men,' wm oen 'and children_;: 1892:""New simplified fashions were: emerging;;: with .ruffles and period #rem 1901 to 1910.:" I-.: 1902..L'The first.;; years of ,t new century` launched,; many:; new fash-, ions. The; Gibson:'Girl epitoniized; thepopular. glamour ,girl of •the. . day". Her hair was worn in a'higi pompadour; topped , •by : sailor` hat;.•- Her shirtwaist and., skirt cos-. tume Were"often girled- with -.a m buckled` licit, someties with a'a„ chatelaine` bag - hanging from 'it nn. the > hip. • ;The " popular influence of the:: day was Lehar's, smash bit of "The Merry Widow " which play ed' in all -the capitals of Europe and: toured. fromcoas_t to -coast' in the "C3-nited States. The huge Mer,-, ry ` Widow: hat, buckled -tongue; shoes .pretty• . silk's stockings and: exciting ; black. costumes ? of ':.then •Widow were• widely ,copied. • The XVlerry. Widow waltz prep"aced the. 'American public .for 'a- sensational; dance erase which•; came 'in later when Irene; and ;VernonCastle• in troduced the tango, the maxixe; and.: the ±bre" step Shoe types important. at this .time included oxford' ties. withbal seams and wide • laces " ending --;with big soft bows, and Regent, pumps, trim 'med ' with small buckles at the throat. New, two -straps and: cross straps` were introduced during the Edwardian decade: Skirts became slightly shorter and showed a wid- er expanse of stocking. Expensive silk stockings became, more popu- lar because-there-waa-reason opu-lar°because-there-waa=reason for - wearing thein. The Edwardian era• was in full swing.''', "High raiser toes iand.liigher l=ib, an heels were very popular at this time also buttoned ; oxfords and; cloth spats worn with pumps or ties. Nautical 'influences included sailor dresses, • sailor .hats,: middy blouses -and sailor tie shoes. For the: first time women's suits,; were fashionable.' Tailor' made "-and dressmaker, suits were made with. long fitted packets or short bolero• ivuri .,r jackets. Shirtwaists be= came : part .of this new suit cos- tume, -,i Pocket :gooks, along -handled" purses and tailored satchels were. functional accessories at this time. New means-of::conveyance by auto, mobile;:: train, or trolley .car made -some--sort of -handbag-a--necessity, "1.9121,' -Anentirely new era came in with the Coronation of King George V -in -England,, a -few years before World • War I. 'Underneath a volcano seethed but on. the sur- face business was flourishing. In Paris, Poiret introduced new fash- ions adapted ash-ions"adapted from the Ballet: Russe;, Art Moderne became a fashion in- fluence. Women wore bigmuffs. and pretty hats, bolero suits: and; braid-trimmed < jackets:. -.Tailored (Continued on Wage 14) . 4 GRITULITI'ON -77 LIMITED LIMITED RS OF CONTINUE LIMITED CINTH UEBE in their EW FACTOR' ompf'rments . of the LIMITED ' - Shoe arnd. Factory Leathers 'ORONTO; ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION°OF THIS NEW AND : VERY MODERN ...PLAIT ELE IC IM I T.E D--°- "ELECTRICL AND MECHANIC AL CONTRACTORS: AND' ENGIN ER ' ,T:CH E NSE R O.N